Trending Products SV-666 General Use Neutral Sealant Supply to Jersey
Short Description:
Description SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion. Where to use It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal. Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. Eas...
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Description
SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion.
Where to use
It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal.
Key Features
1. 100% silicone
2. Easy to use
3. Waterproofing and weatherproofing
4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
5. 12.5% movement capability
Technical data sheet
| Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
| Before curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
| GB13477 | surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.） | min | 30 |
|
GB13477 |
Operating time | min | 20 |
| Curing time（25℃，50%R.H.） | Day | 7-14 | |
| Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 28 |
| GB13477 | The ultimate tensile strength | Mpa | 0.7 |
| Temperature stability | ℃ | -50~+150 | |
| GB13477 | Movement capability | % | 12.5 |
Certification
JC/T881-2001 12.5E；GB/T14683-2003 12.5E
Color
Black，White，Gray
Package
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Waterproof garments can lose their water repellency as dirt and oil break down the water repellent coating. If you notice that the fabric of your jacket is absorbing rather than repelling water, it may be time to reproof it.
1. Always wash your waterproof jacket first before re-proofing.
2. There are two types of clothing proofer to choose from; wash in or spray on. You will first need to decide which is most appropriate for you. Our proofers should not alter the look or handle of the fabric. It is however recommended that the products are tried on a small, inconspicuous test area before spraying on or washing into the garment.
3. If using a wash in proofer, such as our Performance Proofer, first pour the appropriate amount of the proofer into the detergent compartment. For the Performance Proofer this will be two caps full for one jacket and three caps full for two. Allow the washing machine to run through the complete wash and rinse cycle at 30 degrees. Heat helps to activate the product, so if the jacket’s care instructions allow it you can tumble dry the jacket on a low or medium heat.
4. If you’re using a re-proofer spray, such as our Technical Proofer, spray the product evenly on the outside of the jacket from approximately 15-20 cm away. Hanging the jacket on a washing line when spraying with the proofer will help maintain an even coating. Check the jacket carefully to ensure no areas of the fabric have been missed and wipe off any excess with a damp cloth. Allow the jacket to dry naturally. For high abrasion areas such as the elbows and shoulders, it’s recommended that a second coat of proofer is applied. Again, allow to dry naturally.
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When it rained, I would find water on my floor mats and I could actually see it leaking water out of the grab handle bolt holes. There were plenty of videos showing that sunroofs have drain holes which can clog, but I found none showing were the drain holes exited. There were numerous websites giving bad information, opinions, etc.
Then I finally found the answer. For this fix you dont have to take any interior panels apart or replace any tubes, etc. All you have to do is snip the ends off the exit point tubes. The tubes are pinched into an “X” from the factory. It doesn’t take much to clog up. My truck was 7yrs old at this video time. The pinched end was dried and hard and wouldn’t open anymore. Mine were completely packed with drit and debris. Run some warm soapy water through to flush out debris and your done…..problem solved forever.
Step1 – located exit tubes. (Open front doors, its centered between the hinges)
Step2 – Snip off “X”.
Step 3 – Flush with soapy water. (I used a turkey baster to direct water)
