Top Quality SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass Supply to Ireland

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Description

SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly.

Where to use

It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

Technical data sheet

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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Hello everyone, today I am explaining why I use Deep Furred wire, this stucco wire or stucco netting or stucco mesh, same thing, simply different names.
With a deep furred stucco mesh, we are able to apply two coats back to back,
(when the first coat is set enough to hold the second coat,)
As a rule we apply 3/8 and when this first coat sets, we apply anther 3/8,total should be 3/4 or 7/8 if it’s an inch it’s o.k. too as long as the stucco somewhat true and plumb.
For this example I had to add more stucco as I wanted to prove a point, no one really applies more 7/8 total, this includes 3/4 for the base coat and 1/8 for the stucco finish coat.
Note: not all homes have a three coat stucco system, in fact the majority of homes in California have two coat stucco systems usually with a painted surface or finish.
Confused? if so don’t go web surfing as you will really become confused just ask old kirk.

Other Popular Plastering Videos Below

You can view photos of the porch that were taken March, 2013.

https://s1281.photobucket.com/user/768kayshan/library/?sort=3&page=1

It’s been almost 2 years, & this faux application has held up well to both weather & daily use.

Think of this project as being like a texture paint application using a mix of vinyl concrete patcher & dye.

Materials I Used:
- Dust mask & gloves
- Mixing buckets & spatulas/scrappers
- Paint brushes (One extra soft bristle brush for cleaning off faux bricks/stone after peeling up tape).
- Paint Stripper
- Heavy duty power washer
- Vinyl concrete patcher (this was the only type of concrete mix used for entire project)
- Cement dye (Red, Buff, & Charcoal)
- 1/2″ masking tape ( I found this tape at an auto body repair shop).
- Concrete bonding agent
- Concrete sealer
- Heavy duty exterior white paint for the foundation & porch posts.

Steps:
- Apply paint stripper to loosen old paint on porch & then remove all old paint w/ a heavy duty power washer (I rented mine at Home Depot’s tool rental).

- After porch is clean & dry apply the concrete bonding agent. Allow it to dry according to instructions on bottle.

First Layer:
- The first layer will become the color/texture of your faux grout lines. If you have a cement surface that is in good condition I would clean it, apply bonding agent, & after it is dry tape out the pattern for your brick or stone layer. In other words, your original surface will become your grout lines. If you have any cracks or slight dips you can repair them w/ this first layer application of vinyl concrete patcher. Vinyl patcher is stronger than regular cement & will maintain its strength w/ a layer spread as thin as 1/16″ thick(my personal experience w/ this product). Mix Vinyl patcher w/ water (follow directions on bag). The natural color of this product is light grey(or could also be white..so read the bag before you buy). No need to dye this first layer if you like its natural color for your grout..I didn’t dye mine. Apply a thin, smooth, flat layer, & allow to dry. Once dry, if you accidentally have any spots that are too high or pointy you can file them down w/ a cement grinder…but, overall, it may not be necessary since you should be able to blend in slightly high or pointy spots w/ your next layer of faux brick/stone.

- Tape out any pattern you like.

Second Layer:
- Mix some vinyl patcher w/ whatever color dye you like. This will vary depending on what kind of stone/brick design you want on your porch. For example, I mixed one bucket of red dye & a separate bucket of buff dye for my bricks. I then scraped on a thin layer of red & then a thin layer of buff on top (or you can do vice versa), all while cement was wet..this mix of layering the two colors gave the bricks each their own individual & more natural look. Also, keep in mind that your wet cement will become several shades lighter after it dries.

- Allow your cement to dry to a soft, dry, dough-like consistency.. something similar to a raw pie shell dough (If it’s too wet, too much of your cement will pull off w/ the tape. If it’s too dry, you’ll have a difficult time pulling the tape off). Gently & slowly pull up the tape, & gently brush away the little pieces of debris using a VERY soft bristle brush (invest in a well made soft bristle brush..cheap, rough, brushes will drop bristles in your work & may leave brush textures on your concrete).

- Let your handy work dry over night..then apply a couple of coats of sealer to your entire project..make sure your sealer is specially made for fresh concrete work..some sealers can’t be applied until 90 days after your concrete cures. After 90 days, you can also apply a 90+ day sealer.