Reliable Supplier Siway PU FOAM for Roman Manufacturers
Short Description:
Description This product is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength; Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins; Key Features 1. Noise silencing effect 2. Strong bonding strength 3. Water & weatherproof 4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials Basic Application 1.Doors and Windows a...
We are commitment to offer the competitive price ,outstanding products quality, as well as fast delivery for Reliable Supplier Siway PU FOAM for Roman Manufacturers, We are glad that we are steadily growing with the active and long term support of our satisfied customers !
Description
This product is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength;
Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;
Key Features
1. Noise silencing effect
2. Strong bonding strength
3. Water & weatherproof
4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
Basic Application
1.Doors and Windows and wall body between the gap filling sealing, fixed bond
2.Language lab, studio, etc when decorating, gap to fill
Technical data sheet
Project |
Value |
||
Density, Kg/m³,Not less |
10 |
||
Thermal conductivity,35℃,W/(m·K) no more than |
0.050 |
||
Dimensional stability(23±2)℃,48,h no more than |
5 |
||
Operating temperature |
-10~+35℃ |
||
Optimum operating temperature |
+18~+25℃ |
||
Temperature range(After curing) |
-35~+80℃ |
||
Tensile bond strength kPa Not less |
Aluminum plate |
Standard condition,7d |
80 |
Immersion,7d |
60 |
||
PVC plate |
Standard condition,7d |
80 |
|
Immersion,7d |
60 |
||
Cement Plate |
Standard condition,7d |
60 |
|
Shear strength,kpa,Not less |
80 |
||
Foam expansion ratio,Not less |
Standard value-10 |
Certification
JC 936-2004
Color
White
Package
750ml in Bottle * 12 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
Blog- https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html
Instagram- www.instagram.com/heywanderer
E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com
Things you will need:
- Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
- Above Ground Pool Pump
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
- Hole Saw with Arbor
- Plunger Valves
- Pool Outlet
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
- 1 Strainer Nut
Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets
- Floating Pool Dispenser
- Water Testing Kit
Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.
As we spend a fair amount of time boondocking (camping without hook-ups), solar panels have given us the freedom to enjoy the peace & quiet of remote locations without running our generator too much.
Since we already installed our panels on the RV (7 years ago), this is just an overview of our set-up, as opposed to a detailed tutorial.
We show the general layout and components of the system, including the panels themselves, the wiring and the solar controller. We also talk about the benefits of including a simple and inexpensive tilt kit, which allows tilting the solar panels up in the winter, when the sun is lower on the horizon.
Our first RV had two panels, which were permanently fastened flat to the roof, so they couldn’t be tilted. We’ve learned a lot since then, and the new panels are tilt-able, and also use thicker 6-gauge wire to reduce loss along its length.
WONDERING WHAT’S THE BEST GEAR TO USE ON YOUR RV?
Here’s all of our favorite equipment that we use ourselves and recommend to friends:
https://thervgeeks.com/our-favorite-gear/
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Full-Time RVers since April, 2003, we share DIY (do it yourself) RV maintenance, repair, travel, upgrade and operational tips & tricks.
Many RVers are eager to learn more about using, maintaining and caring for their rigs. We hope our experience can help others go DIY, saving time & money, plus the satisfaction of a job well done.
We’re handy RVers, not professional technicians. We’re happy with the techniques and products we use, but be sure to confirm that all methods and materials you use are compatible with your equipment and abilities. Regardless of what we recommend, consult a professional if you’re unsure about working on your RV. Any task you perform or product you purchase based on any information we provide is strictly at your own risk.
We sometimes receive products for evaluation at no cost, and The RVgeeks participate in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. But our opinions are our own, you won’t pay an extra penny, and we only link to products we personally use, love and can recommend to friends with complete confidence.
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