Professional factory selling SV-777 silicone sealant for stone to Mexico Manufacturer

Sticking to the principle of "Super Quality, Satisfactory service" ,We are striving to be a good business partner of you for Professional factory selling SV-777 silicone sealant for stone to Mexico Manufacturer, We sincerely welcome domestic and foreign merchants who calls, letters asking, or to plants to negotiate, we will offer you quality products and the most enthusiastic service,We look forward to your visit and your cooperation.

Description

SV-777 silicone sealant for stone, is an elastomer sealant in modulus, single. Waterproof joints need to be sensitive to natural stone, glass and metal building clean appearance panel for sealing design, it to the moisture in the air after curing in contact, the formation of elastic rubber sealing performance, durability, weather resistance, good combination with most building materials.

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Minimized fluid migration

3. Low dirt pick up

4. Water & weatherproof

5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

6. 25% movement capability

Basic Application

1.Stone curtain wall sealing

2.Engineering ceramic sealing

3.Stone and other materials such as glass, metal seam sealing

4.Other uses

Technical data sheet

Certification

25HM GB/T 23261-2009；ASTM C920-2011

Color

Black，White，Gray

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

LINK TO PART 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyBhd66lY9I
If you know your top is not leaking, or if you have replaced your top and the roof is still leaking, here is a DEFINITE FIX. DETAILS BELOW.

1) Take out rear seat: 2 push-pins you need to push to release bottom of rear seat, each are under the middle of each seat. Put your fingers between the carpet and the seat and feel around, push the button in, and release seats.
2) Take out rear back-rest. 2 bolts with a ratchet in plain view. Then, when unbolted, push back-rest UPWARDS to unhook hinges that are near the top of the back rest, then pull out.
3) Remove plastic side-panel. When you open the door, that piece of plastic above where it says Mustang, needs to be removed so you can access more of the carpet to pull it up. Just pull it up with a trim-removal tool.
4) Use a Torx-45 (pretty sure) to remove your FRONT seat belt bolts. DO NOT turn the wrong way, make sure youre pushing the wrench towards the ground, not pulling it up or you’ll snap the bolt and then your DIY career ends. The bolt needs to turn LEFT!
4) Remove Seats. Straight forward, 4 bolts, simple ratchet. Motor assembly wires for driver’s seat just unclip easily.
5) Peel carpet as FAR to the middle as possible so you can see the entire weld covered in factory sealant from FRONT TO BACK.
6) Seal with whatever urethane, rubber, other sealant you or a professional have chosen SPECIFICALLY for TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE, WATER RESISTANCE AND FLEXIBILITY.
7) LET DRY!!!

***DUCT TAPE LINK FIX I TALKED ABOUT IN THE VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21EcaTRefQ *********

Watch as I install my oil pan and share some tips and tricks that I learned for a successful (non leaking) repair.

I found a lot of useful info here:

https://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153290

This engine is for my 1995 Saturn SW2, I am using a block from a 1997 SL2 and a professionally rebuilt head. All of this was due to poor compression.

Long story short…

My 95 SW2 engine went south, bought a rusted out 97 SL2 for the engine. That engine had no compression on cylinder 3. Yanked both engines out, found burnt valves on the 97. Of course all of this snowballed and I decided to go with a professionally rebuilt head and to do rings, bearings, seals, etc.

Having passed the point of no return I found unibody frame rot and the beginnings of subframe rust so I had to tackle those too.