professional factory for High performance mildew silicone sealant for Washington Factories

To constantly improve the management system by virtue of the rule of "sincerely, good faith and quality are the base of enterprise development", we widely absorb the essence of related products internationally, and constantly develop new products to meet the demands of customers for professional factory for High performance mildew silicone sealant for Washington Factories, Our company will continue to adhere to the " superior quality, reputable, the user first " principle wholeheartedly. We warmly welcome friends from all walks of life to visit and give guidance, work together and create a brilliant future!

Description

Siway high-performance mildew silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral curing, designed for decoration in the need to provide good anti-mildew performance of the occasion designed by environmental protection products. This product can be easily extruded under wide temperature conditions, relying on moisture in the air to cure into excellent, durable elastic silicone rubber, and most of the building materials in the case without primer can produce superior Of the bondability. It has the following product features:

- easy to operate, you can always use out;

- Neutral curing, suitable for most building materials without adverse effects or corrosion;

- Excellent adhesion: no primer, with most of the building materials to form a strong cohesive force;

- excellent weather resistance and aging performance;

- excellent long-term anti-mildew ability;

- Good environmental performance.

Where  to use

Siway neutral high-performance anti-mildew silicone sealant can be widely used in a variety of high-humidity environment, the interface of the waterproof seal and filling and so on, such as cabinets, basin, toilet, shower, etc., and other needs long-term Moldy effect of the decoration of the occasion.

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Easy to use

3. Waterproofing and weatherproofing

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

5. 12.5% movement capability

Technical data sheet

Certification

JC/T881-2001

Color

Black，White，Gray

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

Here’s a head cast with a PT Flex 20 skin backed by a flexible foam interior. Since PT Flex 20 has a working time of about 5 minutes it is ideal for had rotocasting. We used the Gel-10 mold from a previous video.

You should check the valves at 500 – 600 miles, then every 6,000 miles after that.

Tools you’ll need:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
Medium ratchet with short AND long extension
Big flat screwdriver or quarter
19 mm socket
Large ratchet
Flat feeler gauge
Torque wrench (one that works for low torques)
16 mm wrench (optional)

Need a Clymer manual? Check out https://www.clymer.com/ or https://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals

Body work removal and installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kki7S2RZBGQ

Remove the fan. The fan plug is mounted in a bracket on the frame – trace the wires, it’s easier than explaining. There are three 10 mm bolts. Two on the left and one near the center of the bike (right side of the fan) buried behind the radiator hose. The hose is pliable, push it out of your way. Use an extension. Unplugging the fan switch wire may also prove useful.

Marknet Valve Check / Adjustment Procedures: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
I guess I lied. There is a link for the Clymers, but you still have to buy it: https://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=914&title=Kawasaki+KLR650%2c+1987-2006

Unplug the spark plug wire (leave the spark plug alone! What did it ever do to you?) and the temperature sending wire (right next to the spark plug). Remove the ignition coil. It has two wires going into the back, unplug them, then remove the 10 mm bolts holing it in place.

Remove the upper engine mount (I said I wasn’t going to to. *SPOILER ALERT* I tried to get the cover off for maybe 5 minutes to no avail. Then I gave in and took of the mount, the cover came out in about 10 seconds. Just do it). They are all 12 mm heads. Use the 16 mm wrench (not socket, like I said in the video… whoops.) to hold the plate “nut” from getting friendly with the engine.

Snip the wire ties. Get rid of the gas tank rubber doodads. Clean as much of the bike above the valve area as you can.

Take off the wire harness harness (two 10 mm bolts).

Remove the valve cover bolts, all four are 12 mm. The two on the right are straight forward. The back left takes some wire wiggling, and the front left takes a lot of wire wiggling. Store the bolts in a safe place in such a way that you know where they go when you need to put them back in. Mind their gaskets.

Valve stat sheet: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valvclear.zip

Remove the valve cover from the left side of the bike. Be careful: the surfaces are precision machined, screw up and the chance of leaks goes up. BE GENTLE! Gentle like it’s your girlfriend / wife / whathaveyou.

Remove the two round plug on the left side of the engine. Use a big flat head screwdriver or a quarter. Use the 19 mm socket and large ratchet driver on the big hole and turn counterclockwise (the direction the wheels normally turn). There are three marks; you’re aiming for the third. It’s a straight tick mark with a T on right behind it. Watch the cam lobes. You’re at the “right” TDC (top dead center) when the tick mark by the T lines up with the lack of threads where the small cap goes AND the cam lobes all point away from each other. If you overshoot, take a breath, and spin the crank around TWICE. Watch the lobes if you’re wondering “why twice?”

Use a flat feeler gauge and check your valve shim clearances. Watch the video for the explanation.

Valve Shim Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2d-V4udwaA

Use RTV Silicone Sealant and make a thin coat on both sides of the gasket. Put the gasket in place. Put the valve cover back in place from the left side of the bike. Again, BE GENTLE. You’ve made it this far, don’t fubar your precision machined surfaces now.

Replace the four cover bolts. Short on the left, long on the right. Tighten them evenly and carefully working your way up to 6 ft * lbs (that would be 71 INCH pounds).

Put the ignition coil back on, plug in the two wires on the back of it, plug in the temperature sending wire and put the spark plug cap back on the spark plug.

Put the fan back on (three bolts, 10 mm), plug it back in, put the plug back in its clip on the frame, plug the fan switch back in (bottom of the radiator).

Replace the wire ties that you snipped.

Replace the upper engine mount. All three bolts get torqued to 18 ft * lbs.

Replace the Body Work (link is up top).

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