Online Exporter Siway MG PU FOAM for Cyprus Manufacturers
Short Description:
Description MG PU FOAM is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength; Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins; Key Features 1. Noise silencing effect 2. Strong bonding strength 3. Water & weatherproof 4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials Basic Application 1.Doors and Windows and...
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Description
MG PU FOAM is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength;
Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;
Key Features
1. Noise silencing effect
2. Strong bonding strength
3. Water & weatherproof
4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
Basic Application
1.Doors and Windows and wall body between the gap filling sealing, fixed bond
2.Language lab, studio, etc when decorating, gap to fill
Technical data sheet
Project |
Value |
||
Density, Kg/m³,Not less |
10 |
||
Thermal conductivity,35℃,W/(m·K) no more than |
0.050 |
||
Dimensional stability(23±2)℃,48,h no more than |
5 |
||
Operating temperature |
-10~+35℃ |
||
Optimum operating temperature |
+18~+25℃ |
||
Temperature range(After curing) |
-35~+80℃ |
||
Tensile bond strength kPa Not less |
Aluminum plate |
Standard condition,7d |
80 |
Immersion,7d |
60 |
||
PVC plate |
Standard condition,7d |
80 |
|
Immersion,7d |
60 |
||
Cement Plate |
Standard condition,7d |
60 |
|
Shear strength,kpa,Not less |
80 |
||
Foam expansion ratio,Not less |
Standard value-10 |
Certification
JC 936-2004
Color
White
Package
750ml in Bottle * 12 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Turn fire into conductive ink and paint, then build electronic circuits, paper musical instruments and inputs for your Arduino boards!
Today you will learn how to make your own conductive ink to draw electronic circuits using the leftovers from your fireplace or BBQ! You can use this ink to draw circuits on paper and cardboard, learn about electronic circuits or play around with arduino boards like the Makey Makey to create paper musical instruments like pianos, digital drumsets, guitars, etc.
Conductive Ink is a great way to learn the basics of electronics. This a recipe that is non-toxic and extremely low cost. Comercial conductive inks cost around $10 to $15 for a small pen that may not last for much, specially if you want to draw large shapes or cover large surface areas.
This paint will just cost you cents to make using charcoil left from your fireplace or BBQ, a bit of black water paint and a bit of Elmer’s glue! That’s it!! The principle is that carbon dust is conductive so once you blend the charcoil from your fireplace and mix it with a bit of paint and glue you will have a paint that becomes conductive together with the carbon dust!
Now this is not as conductive as commercially available paints that use silver particles or industrial purified carbon, but it will be very useful to conduct very small currents, to turn on an LED or as inputs for Arduino boards. Please experiment with this and let’s find out how to make this paint much more conductive with other ready available, cheap materials. Please email us at info@makerboat.com or visit us at https://www.makerboat.com if you have any suggestions. Let’s create a Creative Commons, Open Source Conductive Paint!
Create your own molds in a very inexpensive way, with only corn starch and silicone. The silicone caulk must be 100% silicone and clear for it to work properly.
Depending on how thick your mold is, it could take only a few minutes to about an hour to dry and be ready for casting. To cast, I use jewelry resin, but I’m sure you can also use plaster or clay. I have not yet tried making 3 dimensional molds, but I’m sure the process is not difficult, just a little more time consuming.
To do this, you might want to try separating your object into 2 or more sections with something like thin plastic sheets or cardboard. Then applying the silicon to each section, letting it dry and then separating your mold from the object. Put the mold pieces together and make sure they stay securely in place and aligned to one another by using rubber bands. Pour your casting material through a hole that you created during mold making or afterwards. Let it dry.
These instructions for 3 dimensional mold making are really just my guess and how I would go about it. If you have a better way or find an awesome video, let me know! I’d like to try it out too.