One of Hottest for Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B to Munich Manufacturer
Short Description:
Description SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion. Key Features 1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive 2. Fast cure at room temperature,...
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Description
SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.
Key Features
1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive
2. Fast cure at room temperature, <40 min for reaching a tack-free status under standard environment (STD: 23℃, 50% humidity)
3. Mix ratio of 1:1 by volume or by weight
4. Good mechanical property
5. Bonds a wide variety of building materials
6. Good waterproofing and chemical resistance
Basic Application
1, the external walls of stone material, ceramic and other hang bond;
2, concrete, ceramics, stone, wood and other prefabricated split, bonding and jointing;
3, concrete, stone and so on crack repair;
4, the structure of the localization, anchor, reinforcement and reinforcement.
Technical data sheet
The following data is for reference only and is not recommended for the specification
| Shear strength | Stainless steel-stainless steel/Standard conditions | ≥18 | JC887-2001 | ||
| Pressure shear strength | Stone-stone/ Standard conditions | ≥12 | |||
| Stone-stone/ The freeze-thaw cycle 50 times | ≥10 | ||||
| Stone – stainless steel/ Standard conditions | ≥12 | ||||
| Standard conditions：Temperature=23℃，relative humidity=50%，48 hours curing | |||||
| attribute | SV-602-A | SV-602-B | SV-602(After mixing) | ||
| Colour | gray | white | grey | ||
| Density(g/cm³) | 1.8 | 1.8 | 1.8 | ||
| Viscosity（PaS） | 200-400 | 150-250 | |||
| Effective operating time(23℃) | N/A | N/A | 20min | ||
Certification
JC 887-2001
Color
Part A-Grey Paste/Part B-White Paste
Package
9kg/9kg per unit and 15kg/15kg per unit
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Easy
Other related videos:
How to strip and repair tap gland-seal
How to stop a monobloc tap outlet leaking (emergency repair)
Earlier today I noticed some water on the floor near the kitchen sink so opened the unit and saw a bit of a leak from the main stopcock that controls flow of water from rising main into the house. Water was dripping from the gland seal. Unfortunately since this is the main way of turning off the water supply* I couldn’t isolate the actual stopcock which ironically is the isolating valve for the cold water supply. So as this was an emergency repair I had to use PTFE tape which is a product that everyone should have in their toolkit.
Anyway – to carry out emergency repair;
Turn off the stopcock and remove handle by unscrewing the cross-head screw in the end of shaft.
Loosen off the gland seal retainer collar. The leak will worsen so put some old rags around it to mop up spills.
Try to extract the old gland packing which is either rubber, fibre or leather. If the tap is in awkward place or the old seal is rock hard and too tight to remove, you then have to wrap several turns of PTFE tape around the shaft as near to the gland seal as possible.
Now using a flat screwdriver and carefully push the tape right down into the gland seal (or what’s left of it)
Now install the gland seal retainer collar and tighten it up.
Now turn on the stopcock or tap/faucet and check for leaks. Ideally the old seal/packing is removed first but in the real world that sometimes doesn’t happen. If there’s still no leaks after a few hours then chances are you’ve fixed the problem. This is a ‘temporary repair’ so ultimately you will have to fit a new stopcock/tap/valve at some point. A useful tip is to regularly cycle any water supply valves, taps etc fully open and closed to keep them from sticking open or shut. Do this twice a year. Taps tend to seize more when they are fully open so it’s good practice to open them fully then back them off half a turn so the internal valve seat isn’t hard against the end stops.
*If the main water supply stop valve is leaking you’ll either need a pipe freezing kit or hope there is a main water supply cut-off along with the water meter or supply from the mains water. Worth making a note of where the stopcocks and other valves are located on your property.
