OEM Customized wholesale SV-777 silicone sealant for stone for Angola Importers
Short Description:
Description SV-777 silicone sealant for stone, is an elastomer sealant in modulus, single. Waterproof joints need to be sensitive to natural stone, glass and metal building clean appearance panel for sealing design, it to the moisture in the air after curing in contact, the formation of elastic rubber sealing performance, durability, weather resistance, good combination with most building materials. Key Features 1. 100% silicone 2. Minimized fluid migration 3. Low dirt pick up 4. Water &...
All we do is always associated with our tenet " Customer first, Trust first, devoting on the food packaging and environmental protection for OEM Customized wholesale SV-777 silicone sealant for stone for Angola Importers, We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and achieving mutual success!
Description
SV-777 silicone sealant for stone, is an elastomer sealant in modulus, single. Waterproof joints need to be sensitive to natural stone, glass and metal building clean appearance panel for sealing design, it to the moisture in the air after curing in contact, the formation of elastic rubber sealing performance, durability, weather resistance, good combination with most building materials.
Key Features
1. 100% silicone
2. Minimized fluid migration
3. Low dirt pick up
4. Water & weatherproof
5. Primerless adhesion to most building materials
6. 25% movement capability
Basic Application
1.Stone curtain wall sealing
2.Engineering ceramic sealing
3.Stone and other materials such as glass, metal seam sealing
4.Other uses
Technical data sheet
| Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
| Before curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| ASTM C 679 | Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
| VOC | g/L | ＜80 | |
| GB13477 | surface drying time（25℃，50%R.H.） | min | 30 |
| Curing time（25℃，50%R.H.） | Day | 7-14 | |
| Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃，50%R.H. | |||
| GB13477 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 30 |
| GB13477 | The ultimate tensile strength | Mpa | 0.7 |
| Temperature stability | ℃ | -50~+150 | |
| GB13477 | Movement capability | % | 25 |
| ASTM C 1248 | Pollution / oil, natural stone | No | |
Certification
25HM GB/T 23261-2009；ASTM C920-2011
Color
Black，White，Gray
Package
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
If you cannot drain your aquarium to repair a leak from the inside, and you need to work from the outside, you have to beat hydraulic pressure.
The way you can do it, is by patching from bottom (where your leak is) to top.
1) Use a 2″ tape (scotch / masking / duct / whatever). See the patch in my other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HRAjfYTesQ
2) patch this tape with a coat or 2 of a plastic bag.
3) put a stripe of silicone (any kind – since it’s external). Now your “bandaid” is ready.
4) put this patch on your Leakage in a way that the dripping is chased up. You cannot completely seal since hydraulic pressure is stronger than silicone. But the silicone is strong enough to push the water flow 1″-2″ up. Just make sure you chase the leak Upwards – not downwards, and not side ways.
5) every 20 minutes or so, you can take of your patch (the plastic bag helps here), and put a new patch, 2″ higher up (repeat steps 1-4) with a small overlap between the previous and the new silicone, so that you continue chasing upwards. If you miss (leak goes in another direction, repeat on this section, till you get it up).
6) as you go upwards, at some point the hydraulic pressure will be low enough that your leakage stops completely. even if you are not lucky, once you reach the top water level, the water pressure is 0, and your leakage will be over.
My leak was at the bottom front left side, and I had to work up slowly against 15″ of water (about 40cm on a 50cm deep aquarium).
When I started this, I did’t know how it was going to turn out. In hindsight I would of course drain 1/3 of the water or 1/5 of the water – anything that is doable without taking out the fish (my initial constraint) or impacting the bio-equilibrium. Doing this would reduce pressure and essentially make it easier (it would take less stages of 2″ patching).
As a conclusion, I can say that in any case drain your aquarium as much as you can – it will help.
Then, if your leak is situated above the water level – work from the inside, using aquarium safe silicone, and if your leak is below that, use the method in this video.
As this was my first external repair it doesn’t look nice, and possibly I could have tried with less silicone, or maybe I could have trimmed it afterwards. However right now I cannot afford the headace of causing a new leak just for the sake of aesthetics.
Online https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DT8R6A/?tag=glaxy8blog-20 Set of Carbon Fiber Pattern Tank & Gas Cap Sticker Decal Pad for SUZUKI GSXR 600 750 1000 1300 HAYABUSA SV650 on sale. Best Deals on Gifts Ideal for Set of Carbon Fiber Pattern Tank & Gas Cap Sticker Decal Pad for SUZUKI GSXR 600 750 1000 1300 HAYABUSA SV650.
