High Performance SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass Supply to Detroit
Short Description:
Description SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly. Where to use It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU. Key Fe...
To create more value for customers is our business philosophy; customer growing is our working chase for High Performance SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass Supply to Detroit, We are glad that we are steadily growing with the active and long term support of our satisfied customers !
Description
SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly.
Where to use
It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.
Key Features
1. High Modulus
2. UV resistance
3. Low vapor and gas transmission
4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass
Technical data sheet
| Test project | standards | Value |
| Sagging degree (mm) | ≤3 | 0 |
| Operating time | ≥30 | 30 |
| Thermal weight loss(%) | ≤10 | 2 |
| Durometer Hardness Shore A | 20-80 | 42 |
| tensile propcrties（MPA） | ＞0.4 | 1.0 |
| Bond damage area（5%） | ≤5 | 0 |
Certification
GB-24266-2009;
Color
Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black
Package
1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)
2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
Electrical Europe are C-Tec authorized stockists of Multi Solve – Available to purchase online – https://www.electricaleurope.com/en/C-Tec-Multi-Solve-500ml-Adhesive-And-Sealant-Solvent-Cleaner-Remover/m-2213.aspx
The ideal preliminary product for all sealants and adhesives, C-Tec’s MultiSolve is a trade favourite for it’s ability to remove all kinds of persistent residues, oils, greases, glues, waxes, tars, and inks. Available in a handy 500ml aerosol can.
Multisolve is the ideal multi-purpose solvent for adhesive and sealant removal for tradesmen in almost every field, and is a favourite among plumbers, shopfitters, tilers, upholsterers, joiners, builders, signmakers, stonemasons, electricians, and many more.
Simply spray multi-solve on the desired surface and within seconds it will begin to remove even the thickest and most persistant adhesives.
If you cannot drain your aquarium to repair a leak from the inside, and you need to work from the outside, you have to beat hydraulic pressure.
The way you can do it, is by patching from bottom (where your leak is) to top.
1) Use a 2″ tape (scotch / masking / duct / whatever). See the patch in my other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HRAjfYTesQ
2) patch this tape with a coat or 2 of a plastic bag.
3) put a stripe of silicone (any kind – since it’s external). Now your “bandaid” is ready.
4) put this patch on your Leakage in a way that the dripping is chased up. You cannot completely seal since hydraulic pressure is stronger than silicone. But the silicone is strong enough to push the water flow 1″-2″ up. Just make sure you chase the leak Upwards – not downwards, and not side ways.
5) every 20 minutes or so, you can take of your patch (the plastic bag helps here), and put a new patch, 2″ higher up (repeat steps 1-4) with a small overlap between the previous and the new silicone, so that you continue chasing upwards. If you miss (leak goes in another direction, repeat on this section, till you get it up).
6) as you go upwards, at some point the hydraulic pressure will be low enough that your leakage stops completely. even if you are not lucky, once you reach the top water level, the water pressure is 0, and your leakage will be over.
My leak was at the bottom front left side, and I had to work up slowly against 15″ of water (about 40cm on a 50cm deep aquarium).
When I started this, I did’t know how it was going to turn out. In hindsight I would of course drain 1/3 of the water or 1/5 of the water – anything that is doable without taking out the fish (my initial constraint) or impacting the bio-equilibrium. Doing this would reduce pressure and essentially make it easier (it would take less stages of 2″ patching).
As a conclusion, I can say that in any case drain your aquarium as much as you can – it will help.
Then, if your leak is situated above the water level – work from the inside, using aquarium safe silicone, and if your leak is below that, use the method in this video.
As this was my first external repair it doesn’t look nice, and possibly I could have tried with less silicone, or maybe I could have trimmed it afterwards. However right now I cannot afford the headace of causing a new leak just for the sake of aesthetics.
