High Definition For SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass for Swaziland Importers

We have the most advanced production equipment, experienced and qualified engineers and workers, recognized quality control systems and a friendly professional sales team pre/after-sales support for High Definition For SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass for Swaziland Importers, We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and achieving mutual success!

Description

SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.

Where to use

It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

5. 100% compatible to SV-8890

Technical data sheet

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

https://www.homeownerseries.com

This is video #1 of a 3-part series. The videos are:

Part 1 = https://youtu.be/8xlJXrSK3ag?hd=1
Part 2 = https://youtu.be/BLDvTRZlyCo?hd=1
Part Overview = https://youtu.be/KCPlbiTcLc4?hd=1

To watch the Flush Valve Playlist = https://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=31C570921B83280C

Flush Valve

Diagnostic

The toilet’s flush valve assembly is most often the center of any leaking in the toilet’s tank. It has moving parts that seal and drain, so as such is prone to be highly affected by corrosion or deterioration. The flush valve assembly consists of the Overflow Tube, Seat, Flapper Valve, and the Sponge Gasket. Each of these parts will develop problems over time, causing an internal leak that is hard to trace. Whenever the flush valve is going to be replaced, the sponge gasket and tank mounting bolts should also be replaced at that time.

To replace the flush valve the entire tank will have to be removed from the bowl of the toilet, exposing the sponge gasket and the nut holding the valve in place. It may be difficult to identify which of these parts are malfunctioning because any defect may be too small to see, for this very reason, whenever the flush valve, sponge gasket, or tank mounting bolts are worn-out, all of these items should be replaced at the same time.

Parts Needed

Before this project is started a new flush valve kit will need to be purchased at a hardware or plumbing supply store. This kit should include the flush valve assembly, which is the overflow tube and seat, seals and lock nut, flapper valve with lift chain and a sponge gasket. Additionally, a supplemental sponge gasket may need to be purchased depending on the curvature of the connection between the tank and the base. The last items that need to be purchased are new tank mounting bolts. Generally, a tank will require two or three mounting bolts so purchase enough for your given toilet.

Tools Needed

The tools necessary for this project are an adjustable open-end wrench or socket wrench, a large sponge, a flat-head screwdriver, a pair of rib-joint pliers, a cement mixing tub, a small plastic container, and possibly a mini-hacksaw.

Watch more Home Repair & DIY videos: https://www.howcast.com/videos/395037-How-to-Repair-a-Hairline-Crack-in-a-Wall

There are two kinds of walls: the ones with cracks and the ones that will have cracks someday. Hold the house together with some easy and affordable quick fix ideas.

Step 1: Clean the area
Clean the drywall area and remove any loose bits of plaster, spackle, and grit, depending how wide the crack has gotten. Remove old tape, textures, or popped nail heads.

Step 2: Cut trench
Cut a trench wider than the crack with your utility knife to get more surface area for the compound to adhere to.

Step 3: Use mesh tape
Lay mesh tape in angled and deep spots that require too much compound to patch. Be sure to attach it an inch over either side of the crack.

Tip
You can choose between fast-drying or flexible compounds. Use water-resistant kinds in bathrooms.

Step 4: Sweep smoothly
Scoop out compound liberally with your knife and apply it to the area. Sweep the knife back and forth diagonally, angling it so the compound spreads and fills evenly. Use slow, careful pulls, feathering the compound.

Step 5: Allow to dry
Allow the first layer to dry following the compound manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6: Sand with the wooden block
Wrap the sandpaper around a small block of wood to get a flat surface and sand the area. Pass a damp sponge over the area after it is dry to inspect it for grooves and blemishes.

Tip
If the crack returns, widens, or if more appear, the house may be settling faster than you thought or the structural integrity may be compromised. Call a contractor to inspect.

Step 7: Skim on second coat
Skim on a second, thinner layer of compound. Dry and sand again, without being too aggressive. Paint the wall and no one but you will ever know.

Did You Know?
The Associated Press reported that American imports of potentially tainted Chinese building materials exceeded 500 million pounds over four years, and might have been used in one hundred thousand homes.