Factory wholesale SV-312 Polyurethane Sealant for Windshield Glazing Export to Lesotho

The company upholds the philosophy of "Be No.1 in quality, be rooted on credit and trustworthiness for growth", will continue to serve old and new customers from home and overseas whole-heatedly for Factory wholesale SV-312 Polyurethane Sealant for Windshield Glazing Export to Lesotho, We sincerely welcome domestic and foreign merchants who calls, letters asking, or to plants to negotiate, we will offer you quality products and the most enthusiastic service,We look forward to your visit and your cooperation.

Description

SV-312  is an isocyanate-free, high modulus,non conductive, thixotropic, single component modified polyurethane adhesive, which polymerizes rapidly under the effect of atmospheric moisture. It has been specially designed for bonding of fixed glass in automotive repair.

It allows a drive away time of 6 hours in vehicles with or without airbag.

*Providing the ambient temperature is at least 23°C and relative humidity 50 %.

At lower temperatures and humidities drive away time will be longer.

Where to use

Bonding and sealing for windshield glass, glass fiber reinforced plastic fittings, steel and aluminum board of automobiles.

Key Features

a. Fast curing under room temperature, no sagging, solvent free

b. High bonding strength, 

c. Good chemical and water resistance

d. No conductive

e. Excellent noise, vibration and impaction resistance

f. Automotive OEM quality

Technical data sheet

Color

White, black, grey

Package

300ml plastic cartridges and 600ml in sausage

Shelf life

9 months 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

This handy tool was created by Linwood Trade Supplies to enable you to get that perfect finish when using silicon around baths, sinks etc. This tool is a must have for even the most experienced trade professionals.

You should check the valves at 500 – 600 miles, then every 6,000 miles after that.

Tools you’ll need:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
Medium ratchet with short AND long extension
Big flat screwdriver or quarter
19 mm socket
Large ratchet
Flat feeler gauge
Torque wrench (one that works for low torques)
16 mm wrench (optional)

Need a Clymer manual? Check out https://www.clymer.com/ or https://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals

Body work removal and installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kki7S2RZBGQ

Remove the fan. The fan plug is mounted in a bracket on the frame – trace the wires, it’s easier than explaining. There are three 10 mm bolts. Two on the left and one near the center of the bike (right side of the fan) buried behind the radiator hose. The hose is pliable, push it out of your way. Use an extension. Unplugging the fan switch wire may also prove useful.

Marknet Valve Check / Adjustment Procedures: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
I guess I lied. There is a link for the Clymers, but you still have to buy it: https://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=914&title=Kawasaki+KLR650%2c+1987-2006

Unplug the spark plug wire (leave the spark plug alone! What did it ever do to you?) and the temperature sending wire (right next to the spark plug). Remove the ignition coil. It has two wires going into the back, unplug them, then remove the 10 mm bolts holing it in place.

Remove the upper engine mount (I said I wasn’t going to to. *SPOILER ALERT* I tried to get the cover off for maybe 5 minutes to no avail. Then I gave in and took of the mount, the cover came out in about 10 seconds. Just do it). They are all 12 mm heads. Use the 16 mm wrench (not socket, like I said in the video… whoops.) to hold the plate “nut” from getting friendly with the engine.

Snip the wire ties. Get rid of the gas tank rubber doodads. Clean as much of the bike above the valve area as you can.

Take off the wire harness harness (two 10 mm bolts).

Remove the valve cover bolts, all four are 12 mm. The two on the right are straight forward. The back left takes some wire wiggling, and the front left takes a lot of wire wiggling. Store the bolts in a safe place in such a way that you know where they go when you need to put them back in. Mind their gaskets.

Valve stat sheet: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valvclear.zip

Remove the valve cover from the left side of the bike. Be careful: the surfaces are precision machined, screw up and the chance of leaks goes up. BE GENTLE! Gentle like it’s your girlfriend / wife / whathaveyou.

Remove the two round plug on the left side of the engine. Use a big flat head screwdriver or a quarter. Use the 19 mm socket and large ratchet driver on the big hole and turn counterclockwise (the direction the wheels normally turn). There are three marks; you’re aiming for the third. It’s a straight tick mark with a T on right behind it. Watch the cam lobes. You’re at the “right” TDC (top dead center) when the tick mark by the T lines up with the lack of threads where the small cap goes AND the cam lobes all point away from each other. If you overshoot, take a breath, and spin the crank around TWICE. Watch the lobes if you’re wondering “why twice?”

Use a flat feeler gauge and check your valve shim clearances. Watch the video for the explanation.

Valve Shim Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2d-V4udwaA

Use RTV Silicone Sealant and make a thin coat on both sides of the gasket. Put the gasket in place. Put the valve cover back in place from the left side of the bike. Again, BE GENTLE. You’ve made it this far, don’t fubar your precision machined surfaces now.

Replace the four cover bolts. Short on the left, long on the right. Tighten them evenly and carefully working your way up to 6 ft * lbs (that would be 71 INCH pounds).

Put the ignition coil back on, plug in the two wires on the back of it, plug in the temperature sending wire and put the spark plug cap back on the spark plug.

Put the fan back on (three bolts, 10 mm), plug it back in, put the plug back in its clip on the frame, plug the fan switch back in (bottom of the radiator).

Replace the wire ties that you snipped.

Replace the upper engine mount. All three bolts get torqued to 18 ft * lbs.

Replace the Body Work (link is up top).

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