Factory Free sample SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant Export to Egypt

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Description

SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions.

Where to use

It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. curtain wall, building facade, expansion/pipe and cable joints.

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Excellent weatherproofing and waterproofing

3. Low gas transmission rate

4. With highly efficient redundant

Basic Application

1.Building fire seam sealed

2.Building façade

3.cable joints

Technical data sheet

Certification

GB/T 24267-2009

Color

Black

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

Applications for Krytox™ lubricants go far beyond bearings and mechanical devices. Krytox™ TS4 Thread Sealant reduces the risk of thread damage, leaks, corrosion and chemical reactions, even in the most demanding applications. It is cost effective—a little bit goes a long way—and can help drive long lasting operational efficiencies for plastic and metal applications.

Learn more at https://Krytox.com

MATERIALS: Wood shapes from your local craft store, Egg Shells that have been cleaned (preferably soaked in very hot water) then dried completely, Tacky Glue, Transparent Acrylic Paint (or) Permanent Dye, Black Ink Pad – Lastly a jump ring to hang the finished item from.

(Watercolors will work but if you brush on your glaze they will rehydrate meaning it may cause smudging- Can be avoided by using an acrylic clear coat to avoid brushing over the surface)

Sealant & Glaze: Decoupage Gloss Sealer & Triple Thick Glaze

Tools: Hand Drill or Power Drill, Pliers

■ LINKS FOR THE GLOSS SEALER:

AMAZON:

https://www.amazon.com/Decoupage-Gloss-Spritz-Sealer-Oz/dp/B004L6GB8E/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1326451458&sr=8-5

HOBBY LOBBY ONLINE:

https://shop.hobbylobby.com/search/default.aspx?searchTerm=decoupage+gloss+sealer

■ LINK FOR WOOD PENDANT PIECES:

AMAZON:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodsies-Wood-Shapes-Circles-Pkg/dp/B004D8JGFU/ref=sr_1_48?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1328540366&sr=1-48

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Take your wooden shape and coat it in a layer of Tacky Glue. (I would not suggest Elmer’s glue. It is too thin for this project. You want something very sticky that will hold the egg shells upon contact. Quick dry tacky glue also works very well.)

After you coat the wooden shape press down your egg shells. It helps to ‘size’ the shells so that they will fit what you are trying to cover. Treat them like puzzle pieces and get them to line up as best you can without having too much excess waste hanging over.

Press down gently working to push the shells in to the glue. Let it dry and do not try to pick off the edges. It will look ugly but you need to let it dry!

After it is dry gently start to crack the egg shells around the edge of the shape. Work carefully so you don’t pry the shells from the face of the pendant. If you find you messed up and took a big chunk off you can try to glue it back on and let it sit another half an hour or so before moving to the next step.

Once all the edges are cleaned up you will need to sand them. Sanding blocks work very well for this. You can make one by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around an extra piece of wood (the same you are using for your pendants) or use a piece of foam like I did in the video. You can also use a nail file if you find you have no sandpaper available to you.

Once the edges are sanded nicely you can go ahead and start painting the shells with your acrylics. Try to get the colors light in some places while dark in others. Variations make this look much more elegant. You may do one coat and then go back with a second to touch up and add some final ‘depth’ to the paint job. Let dry fully. (Half an hour should suffice.)

INK PAD TIP: It helps if you store it upside down so the ink is at the surface when you need it.

Okay… Now it’s time to grab your ink pad- I suggest black. Blot it on the surface of the egg shell pendant. Lightly dab the ink pad on to the shells and you will soon notice that the crevices are left untouched but some of the egg shells have turned black. Don’t panic, it’s fine.

Spray your Decoupage Spray Sealer (or an acrylic spray if you are substituting) on to your pendant. Let them set about 5 minutes and carefully move them to another surface to dry. You don’t want them sticking!

As the spray coating starts to dry you’ll notice that the ink from the ink pad is concentrating in some areas while leaving others. It’s a random act and it can end up with a nice pendant just as easily as it can create a bad one. It’s sort of hit or miss in that sense.

Once the spray coating is fully set pick the ones that you feel are worthy of the final coating and give them one to three coats of Triple Thick Glaze. I’d say two would be fine but if you want to build it up more a third may be used. Let dry completely.

Finally, use your hand drill (or a power drill for those of you who have them) and make your hole in the pendant. Flip the pendant around and look at it from all possible angles… because once that hole is drilled that is how it will hang forever. Make sure you like the direction it is hanging and then, only then, make the hole.

TIP: Do not drill on a surface that you want to keep hole-free. It is very easy to go through the pendant and into the surface behind it with a drill bit so use caution. Using an old phone book or a stack of cardboard is very useful and protects your work surface from getting nicked and damaged from the bit going a little too far.

Add a jump ring to the hole and hang it from whatever sort of chain, string or fabric you would like.

Enjoy!

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