Factory Cheap price SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass for Jakarta Manufacturers

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Description

SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly.

Where to use

It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

Technical data sheet

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
Blog- https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html
Instagram- www.instagram.com/heywanderer
E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com

Things you will need:
- Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
- Above Ground Pool Pump
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
- Hole Saw with Arbor
- Plunger Valves
- Pool Outlet
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
- 1 Strainer Nut

Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets
- Floating Pool Dispenser
- Water Testing Kit

Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.

How to cast a reproduction concrete sink basin by making a 2-part Vytaflex urethane production rubber mold.

Step One: Construct Mold Box
Measure original sink basin. Use melamine board (formica coated) to make mold box segments, which will ensure easier separation from mold rubber.

Step Two: Create Spacer Board
Center model on board to use as a spacer board. Create perimeter outline for cutting. Center model on baseboard. Position spacer board and align with baseboard. Mark alignment point on baseboard and spacer board. Use modeling clay to create a gasket. Use non-sulfur based clay only. This will prevent rubber from going underneath model. Modeling clay will fill negative space between original model and spacer board. Remove excess clay.

Step Three: Acorn Nuts will be Used to Create Registration Keys
Hot melt glue will be used to secute acorn nuts. Place extra key for mold orientation.

Step Four: Assemble and Seal Mold Box
Screw melamine boards together with dray wall screws. Seal seams with hot melt glue.

Step Five: Release Mold Box and Model
Apply Universal Mold Release to all surfaces.

Step Six: Measure, Mix and Pour VytaFlex 40 Mold Rubber
VytaFlex 40 mix ratio: 1 part A to 1 part B by volume. Measure, mix, and pour the liquid rubber. Do not pour beyond sink hole. Let rubber cure for 16 hours at room temperature.

Step Seven: Prepare to Make Second Half of Mold
Use non-sulfur clay to fill in surface irregularities. Measure and cut reverse side baseboard. Secure reverse side baseboard. Turn over mold box. Remove original baseboard to expose concave half of model. Remove spacer board. Remove acorn nuts from rubber mold. Remove clay gasket. Remove clay residue.

Step Eight: Seal Drill Holes and Release Mold Box
Fill drill holes with non-sulfur clay. Seal seams with hot melt glue. Apply Universal Mold Release to all surfaces.

Step Nine: Measure, Mix and Pour VytaFlex 40 Mold Rubber
Let rubber cure for 16 hours at room temperature.

Step Ten: Demold Original Model
Remove mold box side walls. Gently pry original model to expose mold cavity. Concrete mold ready for casting.

Step Eleven: Casting Concrete
Apply In and Out II release agent to all surfaces. Secure 2-part mold with straps and baseboards. Place mold on vibration table. Fill mold with concrete and vibrate. Let concrete cure 24 hours.

Step Twelve: Demold Concrete Casting
A perfect concrete reproduction of the original. Concrete mold is ready to be cast again.

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