Discountable price Siway PU FOAM for Cambodia Factories

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Description

This product is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength;

Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;

Key Features

1. Noise silencing effect

2. Strong bonding strength

3. Water & weatherproof

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

Basic Application

1.Doors and Windows and wall body between the gap filling sealing, fixed bond

2.Language lab, studio, etc when decorating, gap to fill

Technical data sheet

Certification

JC 936-2004

Color

White

Package

750ml in Bottle * 12 per box

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

Table of Contents:
0:00 – 1:40 : Removing carpet stuff from floor
1:40 – 6:00 : Attaching your subfloor RIGHT, and marking your joists
6:16 – 7:51 : Applying Primer
7:51 – 8:24 : Filling cracks/holes
8:24 – 11:09 : Applying self-leveler
11:09 – 18:29 : Making tiles out of slabs
18:29 – 24:57 : pushing one tile into place
24:58 – 27:29 : doing some orbital sanding
27:29 – 29:16 : beware of the sealer coat!
29:16 – 30:12 : doing some inter-coat screening
30:12 – 31:34 : routing a floor duct
31:34 – end: review of finished product as I, non-expert, installed it.

This is a mediocre walkthrough but it should give you a good idea of how the process goes.
Note: this won’t work in all mobile homes. A while back, mobile homes had very little oversight in their creation, so manufacturers were more free to do as they pleased. Typically though not always, this lead to lower quality construction which *might not support the additional 6+ lbs per square foot to the flooring system!

Anyways
You’ll want to look up some more info about using a T-Bar to apply hardwood flooring coating products, as well as information about sanding/refinishing a hardwood floor.

If you have anything you’d like me to add or link you to, then please let me know what I can do.

Tools required for the job:
2x sawhorses (free)
item-moving ‘dolly’ (20 bucks)
gloves to protect hands from repeated abuse (2 bucks)
2x smooth faced hammers (cheap)
marshalltown concrete form pry bar for pushing slabs against wall studs (60 bucks used amazon)
about 2 quarts of wood filler putty. Recommended to check out: latex wood floor filler ( try ebay) (~30 bucks)
7 gallons of oil based polyurethane floor coating (USD ~250 in california)
2x skillsaws (one free other 25 bucks) w 2x carbide blades (~30 bucks)
Good router: 235 dollars!
Tongue & Groove bits (30 bucks ebay)
2.5″ flush trim router bit (17 bucks ebay – not found in Blowes)
2x clamps ~$10
aluminum angle stuff for router guide/straight lines (freeish)
Mechanical carpenter’s pencil: 3 bucks
Chalk line w/chalk: 25 cents @ discount isle of hardware store. Since raised to 5 bucks
2x 12″ framing squares (7.00×2 @ home depot)
drywall square (11.00 @ home depot)
razor for scraping off stuff ($1 @ garage sale)
plastic shims for holding floorboards in place temparily (borrowed : free)
17 point 3 inch galvanized screws x ~10 lbs. ~20 bucks ebay.
17 point 5 inch galvanized screws x ~1 lb ~2 bucks ebay
tape measure: $2 @ walgreens
Jigsaw: borrowed
Superglue x10 bottles: $4 @ harbor freight
Underlayment: $.25-.5 per square foot. Possibly unnecessary, but it really did seem to help with impact noise.
Impact driver: $75-250, depending on how nice you want it.
drill or chuck for impact driver: $15+.
Aluminum straight edge (~8ft) for checking floor levels: free on craigslist. sorry. good luck with that.
Mixing attachment for masonry (~10 @ hardware store?, $1@ garage sale)
Self leveling concrete ($28-33/ 50 lb bag) (I used 9 bags FOCCKK!)
Drum sander rental: 60/day + sandpaper (40-140 bucks)
Orbital sander rental: 50/day + sandpaper (20-80 bucks)
5 gallons primer: free on craigslist
Orbital polishing thingy + clamp + 150 grit screen: 25 + 1 + 5 (garage sale x2, big box store)

Steps:
Remove existing floorcovering (depends what you have)
Attach subfloor using REAL fasteners like screws or ring shank nails in order to mitigate squeaks
Mark where your floor joists and vents are on the wall. Mark at a height slightly higher than your slabs will be.
Seal up any holes or gaps in the floor
make the floor essentially waterproof and sterile using cleaning agents + sealer/primer.
mark where the low spots on the floor are.
Apply a material which will fill those low spots (IE self leveling concrete)
cut your slabs and load them into your rooms. after each room is laid out, smush the tiles in as close as you can, countersink your screw holes @ locations above the joists, and screw the slabs down into your joists. Move onto the next rooms until your entire floor areas are covered.
Rent a drum sander & sand the floors along the grain of the wood. If you’ve got heavy scratches in some areas, you’ll have to star with a pretty low grit. Always work your way up to 80-120 grit.
Rent an orbital sander and orbit your whole floor. First attack your edges where paint still remains, then go over the whole floor, making sure to get rid of any sanding marks (but hey, if you got sanding marks, you can call it “character”)
Apply polyurethane floor coating.
Let it cure for the time on the back of the can (usually like 2 weeks) and move back into your house!

One-part polyurethane gun grade dual purpose adhesive and sealing compound with permanent elasticity. Once extruded, it cures by reaction to the atmospheric moisture to form a high performance and fast curing adhesive sealant. •Fast cure. •Over-paintable. •Can be easily smoothed and levelled out. •Non-corrosive. •Extremely versatile product with a good adhesion on many surfaces. •Good weathering and water resistance.
Application: SOMAFIX PU Sealant Multi Purpose Construction & Automotive is a powerful and versatile adhesive sealant for all jobs involving sealing & bonding (for a wide variety of materials including all cement based materials, brick, ceramics, glass, metals, wood, enamelled substrates, polyester, acrylic resin, plastics): wood, metal or plastic window and door frames, roofing, gaskets and coverings, flexible draught proofing, fixing of lightweight construction materials, containers, tanks and silos.
Directions for Use: •Make sure the surface to be applied is dry and clean, free of dust and grease. Stick both sides of surface with tapes. •Cut the cartridge tip and place it in the gun. •Cut the cannula tip and insert into the cartridge. •Apply the mastic and remove tapes. •Protect against water for 24 hours after application.
Safety: Keep away from reach of children. Avoid contact with eyes. Prolonged exposure to vapors may harm respiratory system. Store in a cool and dry place.