China New Product SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass to St. Petersburg Importers

We have the most advanced production equipment, experienced and qualified engineers and workers, recognized quality control systems and a friendly professional sales team pre/after-sales support for China New Product SV-8000 PU Sealant for Insulating Glass to St. Petersburg Importers, Our tenet is clear all the time: to deliver high quality product at competitive price to customers around the world. We welcome potential buyers to contact us for OEM and ODM orders

Description

SV – 8000 two-component polyurethane insulating glass sealant is a neutral cure, mainly used for the insulating glass of the second seal. Product formulation to use its performance with high modulus, high strength, to meet the requirements of insulating glass assembly.

Where to use

It is a two-component PU sealant that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.

Key Features

1. High Modulus

2. UV resistance

3. Low vapor and gas transmission

4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass

Technical data sheet

Certification

GB-24266-2009;

Color

Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black

Package

1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)

2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

https://www.fairbairninspections.com 604-395-2795

Hi, it’s Mark Bossert from Top Local Lead Generation. We’re here with Mr. David Fairbairn of Fairbairn Inspections in Vancouver talking about mold. How’re you doing today David?

David: Oh, Mark I’m ready to talk about mold today.

Mark: Great!

David: I hope you’re looking forward to some mold.

Mark: Mold sandwich. So the question you wanted and this is funnily enough, the question I asked you last week, is why is there mold on my windows?

David: Yeah, so we’re going to talk about mold on windows and so this is probably one of the most asked questions and yourself included, I think we were chatting before the hangout and you we’re actually saying, I’ve got some mold on my windows, what’s going on? So I said o.k., let’s do a talk on this and explain what’s actually happening. I’d like to maybe share the screen Mark, is that o.k.?

Mark: Yes

David: o.k. I just going to pull up some photos, I actually have some photos from various places, so I’m just going to put it up on the full screen here. I don’t know if you can see that. . .

Mark: I can see that.

David: o.k. so we’ve got some mold on this window here. Now this is a photo of probably you’ve seen a lot of houses like this, so what’s going on with this? So this kind of mold can look kind of scary when you first pull back your drapes and you look at your window and you’re going, first of all its black and anybody who’s watched TV or read any articles on home improvement, you’re going to hear toxic black mold so I get asked this a lot. Is this black mold? The first thing I want to get out of the way is black mold is the wrong name for it. They are talking about a certain species of mold called Stachybotrys and it’s not always black, it can come in different colours, it can come in blue so I want to get out of the way, you actually can’t tell what kind of mold you have unless you actually take it to a lab and sample it. So we know what common types of mold we have indoors so we can usually guess it’s between three different species but if ever have any doubts just as a disclaimer, always call a certified mold specialist who can come out and assist you with your problem before you go jumping to any conclusions. So anyways, we’ve got this mold growing on a window here so basically what we have is, if you think about a house you’ve got a window which is going to be probably the coldest spot on your wall. So first of all it’s on your exterior walls, second of all, a lot of heat loss through windows, right? So this one here, we’ve got an aluminum window frame, I believe it’s an aluminum frame window so it’s probably a chilly day and we’ve got a high indoor either temperature and or humidity, right. So mold on windows, I’m going to go ahead right away and say 99% of the mold on windows problems is going to be coming from indoor humidity so you’ve got a lot of areas where humidity and moisture can originate in homes and the number one is going to be your shower, you’re showers can generate a lot of moisture and cooking, if you’re cooking pasta, you’re going to be sending a lot of water and steam and vapour into the air and your moisture floating around the air is going to settle on the coldest spot just like when you take a can of coke out of the fridge and it gets frosty, right so that’s the same concept here; we’re creating condensation and windows are hot spots for condensation because they’re so cold. So were looking at that and basically the first step you can do to prevent moisture on windows is to ventilate your house properly so this is point one, you’re going to ventilate the house properly. So how is the moisture getting out of the house? Is it clinging to the windows or is it being ventilated properly, so let’s look at a few options for ventilating the home.
So the most obvious option here is we’ve got a bathroom fan and unless you live in a kind of an older house that’s never been updated or you’ve never renovated the bathroom, you probably have one of these in your home and basically we’re going to want to make sure that that fan is running not only when you have a shower but in some cases we’re going to want to have it run for quite a while after you have the shower.

Installation Instructions for an ASI Soundproof Door – High Definition version

The wall that this was installed to was treated with products, too. You can view our video on Soundproofing a Wall (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVtY6MZoFrY) for more information.

https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/acoustic_doors/soundproof_doors.htm

Tools Needed:
-Level
-Pencil
-Tape Measure
-Utility Knife
-Cordless Drill
-Quart-Size Caulk Gun
-Hammer
-Installation Kit*
-Installation Instructions*
-Heavy Duty Screws*
-Shims*
-Backer Rod*
-Acoustical Sealant*
-Door Hardware Kit*
-Door Casing (One installed on door when shipped, other side comes loose)*
-Door & Jamb*

*Included in Door Purchase (https://bit.ly/qZQjRh)

Make sure to inspect the door and included items for any damage prior to installation.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Unscrew the temporary threshold on the bottom of the door.
2. Determine which side of the jamb the hinges will be.
3. Measure and mark hinge locations onto the door frame.
4. Place a set of shims at each hinge, making sure they are plumb with the level.
5. Tip the door into place, make sure all is plumb and level.
6. Remove the two screws in the hinge closest to the door stop.
7. Repeat for each hinge.
8. Prop the bottom corner of the door with it swung at 90 degrees so that it holds the jamb tight to the drywall.
9. Pre-drill the holes from the screws you just removed to prepare for the long screws. (We use a 5/32 bit)
10. From top hinge down, install the included long screws.
11. Adjust shims as necessary to ensure the door stays level.
12. Shim the strike side of the door to get an even reveal on the inside of the door.
13. Install the backer rod around the gap in the rough opening by pushing it in about an inch deep. You can use a shim to push it in.
14. Fill the remaining gap with acoustical sealant.
15. Remove the temporary brace off the bottom of the trim kit.
16. Maintaining a 1/4″ reveal, attach the trim with the supplied screws.
17. Nail trim to wall as needed.
18. Fill holes with wood putty and sand.
19. Remove the short hardware screws that came shipped from the strike side of the door.
20. Replace them with the long screws for the strike hardware to secure the framing.
21. Remove the trim on the hinge side of the door that shipped on the door.
22. Repeat steps 13-18 on this side of the door.
23. Install door hardware as specified.
24. Ensure the door is shut and latched.
25. Adjust the door seals by locating the Phillips screws on the face of the door seal and turn counter-clockwise to tighten the door seal. This will close the gap between the seal and the door.
26. Work the way down the seal until all screws are adjusted so that the seal comes in contact with the door slab.
27. Trim off excess gasket on the strike side of the door jamb at the bottom so that the gasket is flush with the floor.
28. Adjust the bottom drop seal by loosening the set screw at the top of the drop seal counter-clockwise. When the screw engages the stop on the jamb, it will drop the seal down.
29. Peel off the backer on the peel-and-stick seal cover panels and pressure fit over door seals. Start with the top and fit the sides into the miter.