Best Price on Siway MG PU FOAM for Egypt Factories

Best Price on  Siway MG PU FOAM for Egypt Factories
  • Best Price on  Siway MG PU FOAM for Egypt FactoriesBest Price on  Siway MG PU FOAM for Egypt Factories

Short Description:

Description MG PU FOAM is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength; Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;   Key Features 1. Noise silencing effect 2. Strong bonding strength 3. Water & weatherproof 4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials   Basic Application 1.Doors and Windows and...


Product Detail

Attentions

Application

Product Tags

Our company aims to operating faithfully, serving to all of our customers , and working in new technology and new machine constantly for Best Price on Siway MG PU FOAM for Egypt Factories, sincerely look forward to serving you in the near future. You are sincerely welcome to visit our company to talk business face to face with each other and establish long-term co-operation with us!


Description

MG PU FOAM is the expansion, moisture curing, has the strong cohesiveness, elastic foam obturator structure; Save work to save time, reduce waste; High bond strength;

Bubble can stick in the concrete, wood, metal, plastic, such as base material surface, but not including teflon, silicon resins;

 

Key Features

1. Noise silencing effect

2. Strong bonding strength

3. Water & weatherproof

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

 

Basic Application

1.Doors and Windows and wall body between the gap filling sealing, fixed bond

2.Language lab, studio, etc when decorating, gap to fill

 

Technical data sheet

Project

Value

Density, Kg/m³,Not less

10

Thermal conductivity,35℃,W/(m·K) no more than

0.050

Dimensional stability(23±2)℃,48,h no more than

5

Operating temperature

-10~+35℃

Optimum operating temperature

+18~+25℃

Temperature range(After curing)

-35~+80℃

Tensile bond strength

kPa

Not less

Aluminum plate

Standard condition,7d

80

Immersion,7d

60

PVC plate

Standard condition,7d

80

Immersion,7d

60

Cement Plate

Standard condition,7d

60

Shear strength,kpa,Not less

80

Foam expansion ratio,Not less

Standard value-10

 

Certification

JC 936-2004

 

Color

White

 

Package

750ml in Bottle * 12 per box

 

Shelf life

12 months

 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

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    Blog- https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html
    Instagram- www.instagram.com/heywanderer
    E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com

    Things you will need:
    - Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
    - Above Ground Pool Pump
    - Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
    - Hole Saw with Arbor
    - Plunger Valves
    - Pool Outlet
    - 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
    - 1 Strainer Nut

    Other things you will need for maintenance:
    - Chlorine Tablets
    - Floating Pool Dispenser
    - Water Testing Kit

    Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
    Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
    Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
    Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
    Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
    Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
    Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.



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