18 Years Factory offer SV-8890 Two-component Silicone Structural Glazing Sealant to Vietnam Factory
Short Description:
Description SV8890 is neutral curing, designed for glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal designed silicone sealant structure, excellent bonding performance of structure and the weathering resistance, after artificial accelerated weathering test, various physical and chemical properties have no obvious change in the sealant. When using, SV8890 with dedicated two-component glue machine constructi...
"Quality first, Honesty as base, Sincere service and mutual profit" is our idea, in order to develop continuously and pursue the excellence for 18 Years Factory offer SV-8890 Two-component Silicone Structural Glazing Sealant to Vietnam Factory, We sincerely look forward to hearing from you. Give us a chance to show you our professionalism and passion.
Description
SV8890 is neutral curing, designed for glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal designed silicone sealant structure, excellent bonding performance of structure and the weathering resistance, after artificial accelerated weathering test, various physical and chemical properties have no obvious change in the sealant. When using, SV8890 with dedicated two-component glue machine construction, two kinds of components in accordance with the provisions, mixing ratio after curing form elastomer.
Key Features
1. None sag
2. Adjustable working time
3. Excellent adhesion to most building substrates
4. High bonding strength and modulus
5.12.5%movement capability
6. Silicone durability
Basic Application
1.Glass, stone, marble, granite, aluminum curtain wall and glass daylighting roof and metal structural engineering structural adhesive seal;
2.Insulating Glass of the second seal
3.Many other building and industrial applications
Technical data sheet
Test project | Unit | value |
Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
Operating time | min | 20 |
surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) | min | 40-60 |
Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 20-60 |
At 23 ℃ maximum tensile strength elongation | % | ≥100 |
Tensile strength(23℃) | Mpa | 0.9 |
Tensile strength(90℃) | Mpa | 0.68 |
Tensile strength(-30℃) | Mpa | 0.68 |
Tensile strength(flooding) | Mpa | 0.68 |
Tensile strength(flooding – ultraviolet) | Mpa | 0.68 |
Bond damage area | % | 5 |
Thermal aging(thermal weight loss) | % | ≤5 |
Thermal aging(crack) | No | |
Thermal aging(efflorescence) | No |
Certification
GB 16776
Color
Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black
Package
1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)
2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
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This video will tell you how to install a washing machine waste. From drilling a massive hole through the wall to glueing up the PVC solvent weld fitting and creating a water tight seal.
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Hold tight, and welcome to today’s plumberparts.co.uk video. I suppose you’re here to disrupt this peaceful time I’ve having in my deck chair. So I can show you how to cut a hole in the wall and install, very successfully, the waste for your washing machine or dishwasher. Let’s go. Hold tight!
Right, so this is the washing machine that we’re all about. There’s waste here, a little bit of water in it. The first thing we do is mark up the situation so we know roughly where we’re gonna put our hole out of the wall. Let’s have a go at that now. Right, so we’re going to look at something, something like that, so our waste can go in at the top, nice and tight, lovely, like that. So, we’re going to be looking to drill a hole somewhere here. So I mark that with a pencil Right, this hole here is just under a window that’s up there. So, what I want to do quickly is take a rough measurement to the bottom of the window, which is about 40 centimetres, and we’ll go outside and make sure that from the bottom of the window, the 40 centimetres, when it comes out, is going to give us an adequate drop down into our main waste, which it does here.
So now, we’re ready to drill our main hole, which generally is an inch and a half size. Now, you’re gonna need core bits for this sort of thing, and a big drill. This is the sort of stuff that only a plumber’s gonna do, really. You’re not gonna do this yourself. So if you’re ever replacing any of the pipe work or anything like that, and there’s already a hole here, just use this video as a quick guide to how to replace the pipe and maybe put a new trap and downpipe in. But for now, we’re gonna drill this hole and it’s gonna be absolutely epic. Right, beautiful, all ready to go! This is just amazing. Now, we’re ready to drill and it’s gonna be completely crazy.
Right, so when you start your hole try and get just a slight downward incline so the water runs out of here. Right, as soon as you get to your diamond bit turn your hammer off because the diamond is just a cutter, right, so that’s just gonna cut through what we’ve got left in there. Now, we know here that the wall depth is about 30 to 35 centimetres. If it was me, I’d cut off an extra 10 centimetres, okay, so you’ve got a good stub sticking out each side. You can cut it down later anyway, but if you have it too short, you’re not gonna get anywhere, are you? So, let’s just cut this piece now. Should measure that out, I’m gonna measure about 45 centimetres. We’ll just cut that like so. I’ve got to say, these cutters are quality, actually, rough and bow cutters. Look at that. So much quicker, and you get such a nice little wee cut here in this beauty.
Pop this through the wall, and now we can start thinking about doing a little bit of pipe work. Right, so I’ve cut a tiny, small stub as well, that’s gonna go in this elbow here. All we need to do is, what I’ve shown you in another video, how to use solvent with fittings. We just do that, place it here, cut our pipe and the solvent will glue. and get a tiny little bit to our stub in there, as well, like this. Now, sit there just like that. Right, so, these actual fittings here, they work in just a standard compression way. As you can see, inside we got a nut here, we got our little washer, and also our sealing washer, here, with a taper on it. So, we’ll tighten this up and put it on, as usual, and then we’ll be ready to drill the brackets that will hold this upright.
Right, now we’ve got that there, we just need to pull our washing machine out so we can slide in our little waste so it’s nice and out of the way. Right, so, now we can bring it all the way up to where we’re going to have it, get ourselves out the spirit level. Make sure it’s on straight, about there, Lovely. Take the spirit level directly up from that one, and just do the same again. This is so goddamn easy.
So, now we’ve got that in there like that. We can get our waste and pop it in the hole just up here like so, and then screw that waste as well, using this screw up here. This screw up here. Just screw that into that bit of wood and that will hold that nice and steady. Um, once you’ve done that, you’ve put the waste and everything, push your washing machine back. We’re pretty much done in this room, now. The only thing you can do later on is test for leaks.
Dyno testing Pulstar’s new spark plug design to see if it really can produce more horsepower versus a conventional plug as the company claims.
This is a video I originally shot back in 2011, moving it over to YouTube from another video service.
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