18 Years Factory offer SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to San Francisco Manufacturers
Short Description:
Description SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material. Where to use It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU. Key Features 1. High Modulus 2. UV resistance 3. Low vapor and gas transmission 4. Primerless adhesion...
"Based on domestic market and expand overseas business" is our development strategy for 18 Years Factory offer SV-8800 Silicone Sealant for Insulating Glass to San Francisco Manufacturers, We will supply best quality, the most market competitive price, for every new and old customers with the most perfect green services.
Description
SV-8800 is two components, high modulus; neutral curing silicone sealant specifically developed for assembly of high performance insulated glass units as secondary sealing material.
Where to use
It is a two-component silicone that offers variable work life with high bonding strength to maintain the integrity of insulating glass unit, suits both commercial and residential IGU.
Key Features
1. High Modulus
2. UV resistance
3. Low vapor and gas transmission
4. Primerless adhesion to coated glass
5. 100% compatible to SV-8890
Technical data sheet
Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H. | |||
GB13477 | Specific gravity(After mixing) | 1.33 | |
GB13477 | Operating time | min | 20-40 |
GB13477 | surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) | min | 80-188 |
corrosivity | No | ||
7 days after curing——25℃,50%R.H. | |||
GB/T 531 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 40 |
GB13477 | The tensile modulus at 12.5% elongation | Mpa | 0.18 |
The ultimate tensile strength | Mpa | 0.92 | |
GB13477 | Elongation limit (fracture) | % | 150 |
Certification
GB-24266-2009;
Color
Component A(Base) – White, Component B(Catalyst)- Black
Package
1. Component A(Base): (190L), Component B(Catalyst) (18.5L)
2. Component A(Base):24.5kg (18L), Component B(Catalyst): 1.9kg (1.8L)
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
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This video will tell you how to install a washing machine waste. From drilling a massive hole through the wall to glueing up the PVC solvent weld fitting and creating a water tight seal.
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Hold tight, and welcome to today’s plumberparts.co.uk video. I suppose you’re here to disrupt this peaceful time I’ve having in my deck chair. So I can show you how to cut a hole in the wall and install, very successfully, the waste for your washing machine or dishwasher. Let’s go. Hold tight!
Right, so this is the washing machine that we’re all about. There’s waste here, a little bit of water in it. The first thing we do is mark up the situation so we know roughly where we’re gonna put our hole out of the wall. Let’s have a go at that now. Right, so we’re going to look at something, something like that, so our waste can go in at the top, nice and tight, lovely, like that. So, we’re going to be looking to drill a hole somewhere here. So I mark that with a pencil Right, this hole here is just under a window that’s up there. So, what I want to do quickly is take a rough measurement to the bottom of the window, which is about 40 centimetres, and we’ll go outside and make sure that from the bottom of the window, the 40 centimetres, when it comes out, is going to give us an adequate drop down into our main waste, which it does here.
So now, we’re ready to drill our main hole, which generally is an inch and a half size. Now, you’re gonna need core bits for this sort of thing, and a big drill. This is the sort of stuff that only a plumber’s gonna do, really. You’re not gonna do this yourself. So if you’re ever replacing any of the pipe work or anything like that, and there’s already a hole here, just use this video as a quick guide to how to replace the pipe and maybe put a new trap and downpipe in. But for now, we’re gonna drill this hole and it’s gonna be absolutely epic. Right, beautiful, all ready to go! This is just amazing. Now, we’re ready to drill and it’s gonna be completely crazy.
Right, so when you start your hole try and get just a slight downward incline so the water runs out of here. Right, as soon as you get to your diamond bit turn your hammer off because the diamond is just a cutter, right, so that’s just gonna cut through what we’ve got left in there. Now, we know here that the wall depth is about 30 to 35 centimetres. If it was me, I’d cut off an extra 10 centimetres, okay, so you’ve got a good stub sticking out each side. You can cut it down later anyway, but if you have it too short, you’re not gonna get anywhere, are you? So, let’s just cut this piece now. Should measure that out, I’m gonna measure about 45 centimetres. We’ll just cut that like so. I’ve got to say, these cutters are quality, actually, rough and bow cutters. Look at that. So much quicker, and you get such a nice little wee cut here in this beauty.
Pop this through the wall, and now we can start thinking about doing a little bit of pipe work. Right, so I’ve cut a tiny, small stub as well, that’s gonna go in this elbow here. All we need to do is, what I’ve shown you in another video, how to use solvent with fittings. We just do that, place it here, cut our pipe and the solvent will glue. and get a tiny little bit to our stub in there, as well, like this. Now, sit there just like that. Right, so, these actual fittings here, they work in just a standard compression way. As you can see, inside we got a nut here, we got our little washer, and also our sealing washer, here, with a taper on it. So, we’ll tighten this up and put it on, as usual, and then we’ll be ready to drill the brackets that will hold this upright.
Right, now we’ve got that there, we just need to pull our washing machine out so we can slide in our little waste so it’s nice and out of the way. Right, so, now we can bring it all the way up to where we’re going to have it, get ourselves out the spirit level. Make sure it’s on straight, about there, Lovely. Take the spirit level directly up from that one, and just do the same again. This is so goddamn easy.
So, now we’ve got that in there like that. We can get our waste and pop it in the hole just up here like so, and then screw that waste as well, using this screw up here. This screw up here. Just screw that into that bit of wood and that will hold that nice and steady. Um, once you’ve done that, you’ve put the waste and everything, push your washing machine back. We’re pretty much done in this room, now. The only thing you can do later on is test for leaks.
The coating Microsoft puts on the Mouse like the Wireless Intellimouse Explorer 2.0 seems to degrade and cause the black rubbery surface to become sticky. I’ve searched the internet and the only true solution to fixing this annoying problem is to sand the sticky residue from the black rubber coating. The mouse will look slightly scuffed on the black parts but at least it will never feel sticky again.
BTW: My mouse is only 1 year old before the problem started to happen.
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