16 Years Factory SV-900 Industrial MS polymer silicone sealant to Nairobi Factories

We insist on the principle of development of 'High quality, Efficiency, Sincerity and Down-to-earth working approach' to provide you with excellent service of processing for 16 Years Factory SV-900 Industrial MS polymer silicone sealant to Nairobi Factories, With superb service and quality, and an enterprise of foreign trade featuring validity and competitiveness, that will be trusted and welcomed by its clients and creates happiness to its employees.

Description

It is one component, primer less, can be painted, high quality joint sealant based on MS polymer technology, ideal for all sealing and boding on all materials. It is solvent free, environmental protection product.

Where to use

Sealing and bonding in housing area, bus, train, elevator, air conditioner, ventilation equipment. Used for installing fixed panel frame, windowsill threshold, and suitable for sealing on all materials surface, like painted metal, glass, wood, concrete, marble, natural stone, granite, bricks, mirrors, aluminum, steel, lead, zinc, common plastics, polystyrene, polyurethane and so on. Sealing the joint of ceiling, timber, gaps of water pipe, gutter on roofs, moved rooms, container, marine. Apply for interior and exterior family decoration, like floor adhesive systems, particular for laying floor tiles, suitable for kitchen, bathroom.

Key Features

1. Paint able

2. Sealing most materials

3. Excellent adhesion

Technical data sheet

Color

White, black, grey

Package

300ml plastic cartridges

Shelf life

12 months 

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

So I have a friend that used to drive a 2016 Toyota Corolla but that car is a cube now. She now has this 2010 Toyota Camry that is a family car in which the last driver smoked. I have the car all week and my goal is to spend all evenings with it to see how close I can get it to a new driving experience. Can I get her to enjoy driving the Camry more than the Corolla? That’s my goal.

Brandenburg Concerto No4-1 BWV1049 – Classical Whimsical by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
Source: https://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100303
Artist: https://incompetech.com/

Car Detailing Products

Adam’s Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid https://amzn.to/2t5pJeg

Adam’s NEW Car Wash Shampoo 16oz https://amzn.to/2t5M3nW

Adam’s DWC-16 Car Wheel Cleaner – 16 oz. https://amzn.to/2rjN3Ug

Adam’s All Purpose Cleaner 16oz https://amzn.to/2srT1FV

Adam’s Polishes Adam’s Detail Spray, 16Oz https://amzn.to/2seC9QP

Adam’s VRT – 16oz https://amzn.to/2rkfz8c

Adam’s New Glass Cleaner 16oz https://amzn.to/2svVUGt

Adam’s Wheel Woolie https://amzn.to/2t5r6JX

Adam’s Trim & Lug Nut Brush https://amzn.to/2sDptWh

Adam’s VRT Super Block Tire Dressing Applicator https://amzn.to/2sstLiL

Adam’s Leather and Interior Care Kit https://amzn.to/2svJZIV

Car Paint Correcting Products

Adam’s Correcting & Finishing Polish Combo 8oz https://amzn.to/2t5ulRA

Adam’s Paint Sealant 8 Ounce https://amzn.to/2t5lDmh

Pressure Washer Setup

Forney 75180 Pressure Washer Accessories, Spray Gun, 12 GPM, 3/8-Inch FNPT Inlet, 1/4-Inch FNPT Outlet, 4,000 PSI https://amzn.to/2ss4FAE

Forney 75126 Quick Coupler Male Socket, 1/4inch M-NPT, 5,500 PSI https://amzn.to/2t5ulkC

Mosmatic Live Pressure Washer Swivel – 4000 PSI, 3/8in. NPT-M, Stainless Steel, Model# DGV

https://amzn.to/2sDbEay

Good Year 12630 Rubber Pressure Washer Hose, 50′ x 3/8″, Yellow

https://amzn.to/2ssdsTb

Ultimate Washer UW16-PA71DF Female Coupler, 3/8-Inch, Stainless Steel, 2-Pack

https://amzn.to/2t5HLgk

Ultimate Washer 18717 Pressure Washers Stainless Male Nipple, 3/8-Inch, 2-Pack, Replaces Legacy 89222220

https://amzn.to/2sCW3ry

No-Leaks Pressure Washer Garden Hose Quick Connect Set , 6 Male Connects + 2 Female Connects https://amzn.to/2ssmkIl

Pressure Washer Parts 5 Tips Quick Connect to Power Gun Wand Varied Nozzles Spray 5 Piece 2.5 GPM New https://amzn.to/2rklb2a

Apex 887-6 Hose Reel Leader Hose, 5/8-Inch x 6-Feet https://amzn.to/2rzQ0iQ

Others

McCulloch MC1385 Deluxe Canister Steam System https://amzn.to/2rjMEBm

Craftsman Tool Box Cart, 350 Lb Large Capacity, Steel Sliding Drawer, Black https://amzn.to/2ssmj7s

You should check the valves at 500 – 600 miles, then every 6,000 miles after that.

Tools you’ll need:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
Medium ratchet with short AND long extension
Big flat screwdriver or quarter
19 mm socket
Large ratchet
Flat feeler gauge
Torque wrench (one that works for low torques)
16 mm wrench (optional)

Need a Clymer manual? Check out https://www.clymer.com/ or https://www.youtube.com/user/ClymerManuals

Body work removal and installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kki7S2RZBGQ

Remove the fan. The fan plug is mounted in a bracket on the frame – trace the wires, it’s easier than explaining. There are three 10 mm bolts. Two on the left and one near the center of the bike (right side of the fan) buried behind the radiator hose. The hose is pliable, push it out of your way. Use an extension. Unplugging the fan switch wire may also prove useful.

Marknet Valve Check / Adjustment Procedures: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
I guess I lied. There is a link for the Clymers, but you still have to buy it: https://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=914&title=Kawasaki+KLR650%2c+1987-2006

Unplug the spark plug wire (leave the spark plug alone! What did it ever do to you?) and the temperature sending wire (right next to the spark plug). Remove the ignition coil. It has two wires going into the back, unplug them, then remove the 10 mm bolts holing it in place.

Remove the upper engine mount (I said I wasn’t going to to. *SPOILER ALERT* I tried to get the cover off for maybe 5 minutes to no avail. Then I gave in and took of the mount, the cover came out in about 10 seconds. Just do it). They are all 12 mm heads. Use the 16 mm wrench (not socket, like I said in the video… whoops.) to hold the plate “nut” from getting friendly with the engine.

Snip the wire ties. Get rid of the gas tank rubber doodads. Clean as much of the bike above the valve area as you can.

Take off the wire harness harness (two 10 mm bolts).

Remove the valve cover bolts, all four are 12 mm. The two on the right are straight forward. The back left takes some wire wiggling, and the front left takes a lot of wire wiggling. Store the bolts in a safe place in such a way that you know where they go when you need to put them back in. Mind their gaskets.

Valve stat sheet: https://www.klr650.marknet.us/valvclear.zip

Remove the valve cover from the left side of the bike. Be careful: the surfaces are precision machined, screw up and the chance of leaks goes up. BE GENTLE! Gentle like it’s your girlfriend / wife / whathaveyou.

Remove the two round plug on the left side of the engine. Use a big flat head screwdriver or a quarter. Use the 19 mm socket and large ratchet driver on the big hole and turn counterclockwise (the direction the wheels normally turn). There are three marks; you’re aiming for the third. It’s a straight tick mark with a T on right behind it. Watch the cam lobes. You’re at the “right” TDC (top dead center) when the tick mark by the T lines up with the lack of threads where the small cap goes AND the cam lobes all point away from each other. If you overshoot, take a breath, and spin the crank around TWICE. Watch the lobes if you’re wondering “why twice?”

Use a flat feeler gauge and check your valve shim clearances. Watch the video for the explanation.

Valve Shim Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2d-V4udwaA

Use RTV Silicone Sealant and make a thin coat on both sides of the gasket. Put the gasket in place. Put the valve cover back in place from the left side of the bike. Again, BE GENTLE. You’ve made it this far, don’t fubar your precision machined surfaces now.

Replace the four cover bolts. Short on the left, long on the right. Tighten them evenly and carefully working your way up to 6 ft * lbs (that would be 71 INCH pounds).

Put the ignition coil back on, plug in the two wires on the back of it, plug in the temperature sending wire and put the spark plug cap back on the spark plug.

Put the fan back on (three bolts, 10 mm), plug it back in, put the plug back in its clip on the frame, plug the fan switch back in (bottom of the radiator).

Replace the wire ties that you snipped.

Replace the upper engine mount. All three bolts get torqued to 18 ft * lbs.

Replace the Body Work (link is up top).

Please rate and leave comments!

For a wealth of KLR 650 information, please visit KLR650.NET – Your Kawasaki KLR650 Resource!
If you decide to join, please use my referral link: https://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php?referrerid=17746