14 Years Factory SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant to Liverpool Factories

Being supported by an advanced and professional IT team, we could offer technical support on pre-sales & after-sales service for 14 Years Factory SV-666 Neutral silicone sealant to Liverpool Factories, Looking to the future, a long way to go, constantly striving to become the all staff with full enthusiasm, one hundred times the confidence and put our company built a beautiful environment, advanced products, quality first-class modern enterprise and work hard!

Description

SV-666 neutral silicone sealant is a neutral curing glue single component, the modulus of the. It is specially designed for windows and doors caulking sealing general plastic doors and windows. It has good adhesion to glass and aluminum alloy, and has no corrosion.

Where  to use

It is fit for multiple purpose sealing and bonding applications to form a silicone rubber adhering to adjacent substrates e.g. glass, ceramic, tile, wood and metal.

Key Features

1. 100% silicone

2. Easy to use

3. Waterproofing and weatherproofing

4. Primerless adhesion to most building materials

5. 12.5% movement capability

Technical data sheet

Certification

JC/T881-2001 12.5E；GB/T14683-2003 12.5E

Color

Black，White，Gray

Package

300ml in cartridge * 24 per box, 590ml in sausage *20 per box

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

GAF- Mastering The Roof (chapter 14)

The Liberty™ System is designed for both new roofing and re-roofing applications.
Full Installation Guide for Low Slope Modified Roofing (Cold-Applied Liberty System).
Low Slope Roofing Systems such as Liberty should only be installed on roof slopes of 2 in 12″ or higher. Never install it on roofs with ponding water.

This guide covers following procedures:

Deck Preparation
Base Ply Install
Middle Ply Install
Cap Sheet Installation
Drip Edge, Flashing and Accessory Installation details.

Low slope areas such as the roofs of carports, garages, porches and sun rooms – anything below a 2/12 pitch requires special attention.
Without the drainage of a steep slope, these roofs can take a hard beating from rain, ice and snow.

You’ve probably seen the problem leaks that occur where these low slope roofs tie in with the main house.

To provide you with materials that can meet these challenges, GAF has developed a series of self adhering membranes that go down easy, apply with simple tools and provide maximum protection. Lets take a look at these revolutionary low slope products and see how they install.

Liberty is a system for low slopes with a pitch between 1/2” to 6” per foot. Designed as a Whether installing Liberty Mechanically Attached Base Sheet, or Liberty Self Adhered Base Sheet, your edge metal details are the same.

At the edge of the roof, install drip edges. Primed Metal drip edge is required at eaves and rakes on Liberty Systems. At eaves and rakes, install a bed of Topcoat® Matrix 201 Premium SBS Flashing Cement to set the metal drip edge into. Next, to better seal the flange to the Base Sheet Base/Ply, nail the drip edge 3” on centers in a staggered pattern using roofing nails. Finally, apply a 1/16 to 1/8 inch troweling of Matrix 201 Premium SBS Flashing Cement to the top of the metal prior to installing the Liberty Cap Sheet over drip edges. Using a notched trowel helps assure a proper application rate of adhesive.

Working from the center of the length of Base Ply Sheet, allow the sheet to roll onto the primed deck, being careful to avoid wrinkles and trapped air while maintaining proper alignment with the selvage edge of the previous course.

Firmly hand press the sheet to avoid wrinkles and trapped air as the Base/Ply adheres to the underlying base sheet or primed deck.

Now fold the other half of the sheet back on itself exposing the remaining release film. Remove the release film and roll the sheet in place working from the center of the sheet outward towards the ends of the sheet.
Flashing of walls, roof terminations and penetrations can also be done with Liberty membranes and pre-flashed, SBS M-Weld Units.

As with all vertical flashings, the flashing is nailed off at the top and counter flashed.

Talent On Camera
Liberty is just one of the self-adhered products offered by GAF. Others include the Freedom series of self-adhered TPO roofing membranes.
Freedom membrane is a tough commercial grade membrane that is easy to install, long lasting and energy efficient with a white reflective surface. For further information on self adhered roofing technology, visit GAF.com or call 1-800-ROOF-411. That’s 1-800-766-3411.

Check out our blog for clickable links to the items below!
Blog- https://www.heywandererblog.com/2017/06/diy-stock-tank-pool-everything-you-need.html
Instagram- www.instagram.com/heywanderer
E-mail- heywanderer@gmail.com

Things you will need:
- Stock tank (size of your choosing- ours is 8 ft.)
- Above Ground Pool Pump
- Weatherproof Silicone Sealant
- Hole Saw with Arbor
- Plunger Valves
- Pool Outlet
- 1-3 Rubber Washers (or Gaskets)
- 1 Strainer Nut

Other things you will need for maintenance:
- Chlorine Tablets
- Floating Pool Dispenser
- Water Testing Kit

Step 1- Find a nice level area to lay the stock tank on. If the area where you have chosen isn’t level, use sand or rocks to build up whatever side needs it. It is very important that your stock tank be level so there aren’t any unexpected leaks.
Step 2- Cut holes in your stock tank. I’m not going to lie- this is a pain in the butt. We bought a hole saw with an arbor and it took two people to get through the metal. You will need two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. In an above ground pool, these aren’t usually right on top of each other, but ours are. We haven’t ever seen this as a problem.
Step 3- Start assembling the parts. In the pool pump package there is a packet with instructions, warnings and troubleshooting. This packet proved to be vital in the setup of the pool. I did end up getting 2 gaskets for the bottom section (the drain section), one for the inside of the pool and one for the outside. It only says you need one for the inside, but this was causing a drip for us. I also put thread seal tape around the connections that were closest to the pool. There are a lot of connections, and each one has a gasket, so you could probably get away without the tape. I didn’t put it on all the connections, the only ones that really seemed to matter were the ones that are connecting the hoses to the pool.
Step 4- Apply silicone waterproof sealant around all crevices involving the input and output parts. I did this on the inside of the pool and the outside. And I applied it VERY HEAVILY and did two layers, allowing one to dry before the second was applied. Sealing these crevices is one of the most important parts. This is what is going to keep the water in the pool. Well all of these steps are leading up to keeping water in the pool, but if there is any chance that it’s going to be getting out, this is what will save you.
Step 5- Test for leaks. Before I added water to the pool, I took a water bottle and poured a good amount of water on the input and output parts. You could also just use a water hose. I would make sure the hose wasn’t on full blast. You don’t want to accidentally penetrate the sealant.
Step 6- Once you are sure there aren’t any leaks, fill the pool just above the bottom hole/output. Check again to see if any leaks have started. If there aren’t any, fill the rest of the pool up!
Step 7- Turn the pump on. Make sure both plunger valves are open/unlocked. When you first do this water may not come out of the output, but there is a solution! Twist off the knob on top of the filter pump to let some air out. Some water may escape too and that’s okay, just be ready to screw it back on as soon as the water starts coming out.