13 Years manufacturer Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B Supply to Finland

We insist on offering high quality production with good business concept, honest sales and the best and fast service. it will bring you not only the high quality product and huge profit, but the most significant is to occupy the endless market for 13 Years manufacturer Siway SV-602 Epoxy Structural Adhesive A/B Supply to Finland, sincerely look forward to serving you in the near future. You are sincerely welcome to visit our company to talk business face to face with each other and establish long-term co-operation with us!

Description

SV-602 is a 2-part structural epoxy adhesive developed for such application as dry fixing cladding. It has strong adhesion to metals, woods, reinforced plastics stone, ceramic and masonry. It is the best choice for bonding parts which must withstand weather, moisture and temperature fluctuations. SV-602 will adhere with minimum surface preparation and has a low coefficient of expansion.

Key Features

1. Room temperature curing Epoxy adhesive

2. Fast cure at room temperature, <40 min for reaching a tack-free status under standard environment (STD: 23℃, 50% humidity)

3. Mix ratio of 1:1 by volume or by weight

4. Good mechanical property

5. Bonds a wide variety of building materials

6. Good waterproofing and chemical resistance

Basic Application

1, the external walls of stone material, ceramic and other hang bond;

2, concrete, ceramics, stone, wood and other prefabricated split, bonding and jointing;

3, concrete, stone and so on crack repair;

4, the structure of the localization, anchor, reinforcement and reinforcement.

Technical data sheet

The following data is for reference only and is not recommended for the specification

Certification

JC 887-2001

Color

Part A-Grey Paste/Part B-White Paste

Package

9kg/9kg per unit and 15kg/15kg per unit

Shelf life

12 months

Note

If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.

We all have a pair of shoes that are just so comfortable. And as old as they may be, we still want to wear them. Then suddenly…The Bottom falls off. WHAT!!! How did this happen? Here is a simple and cheap fix.

Here is where you can purchase the items or ingredients in this video while supporting this channel at the same time (amazon affiliate link)

You Can Get Shoe Goo Here:

https://amzn.to/2i8oiIm

THE TOOLS I USE MOST

All Clad Fry Pans: – https://amzn.to/2iTuUYR
Schmidt Brothers Knives: – https://amzn.to/2iwHktc
Wood Cutting Board: – https://amzn.to/2iwRpGl
Utility Tong: – https://amzn.to/2hHrThS
Hamilton Beach Stand Mixer: – https://amzn.to/2imJn2u

MY CAMERA EQUIPMENT

Nikon D5500: – https://amzn.to/2iTF2kd
Samsung WB250F: – https://amzn.to/2imCI8x
Lighting Kit: – https://amzn.to/2iEkEo4
Tripod: – https://amzn.to/2hHlHqk

—

Music Title: Shiny Tech – Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0

https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

A few people have asked about the products that were used for this project…

The first layer (troweled over the metal lathe to about 1/4″ thickness) can be a high-polymer thinset mortar that is normally used for setting porcelain tiles. For added flexibility and stickiness, polymer admix can be used instead of water when preparing the mix. The second layer can be a polymer enriched sanded grout, again prepared with polymer admix instead of water. And the third and final layer(s) can be unsanded grout without the polymer addition (the top layers want to not be so sticky). The sanding steps don’t really have to be intensive if your trowel work produces the flatness that you desire.

For this project I made my own mixes using raw cement, lime, and fancier cementitious materials just because I wanted to learn and experiment. But over-the-counter materials as mentioned in the above paragraph are essencially the same. To finish I used a few coats of a food-safe solvent based tile sealer, the kind used for non glazed porcelain and terracotta tiles, followed by a cocktail mixture of tung oil, natural solvent, beeswax, and carnuba wax to seal the surface.

It has been a year and a half since the project was completed, and I WOULD do this again. You should know however that the surface DOES “stain.” Over time and use it develops a patina. Common use areas morph into different shades and colors depending on what was above those areas and for how long. This may be a deal-breaker for some people, however this is exactly the look I was trying to achieve. Over time the varying shades blend into use-shapes as you would expect for example from leather or copper goods. It should also be mentioned that doing a concrete counter this way as opposed to the pour-in method or making a mold, saved many hundreds of extra pounds of dead weight sitting on the cabinets and weighing down on the foundation.

Lastly – to get experience with the process I experimented with a couple af ad hoc counters to be used as gardening tables (seen in the very early parts of the video). This ended up to be very important since from the start I realized I was going to make a big mess.