10 Years manufacturer SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Mauritius Factories
Short Description:
Description SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions. Where to use It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. ...
We have many excellent staff members good at marketing, QC, and dealing with kinds of troublesome problem in the production process for 10 Years manufacturer SV-9300 Fireproof silicone sealant for Mauritius Factories, we are now looking forward to even greater cooperation with overseas customers based on mutual benefits. If you are interested in any of our products, please feel free to contact us for more details.
Description
SV – 9300 Fire resistant silicone sealant is a one-component, neutral-curing silicone sealant exhibiting superior performance in applications where sealing openings in walls and floors are needed to control the spread of fire, smoke, toxic gasses, and water during fire conditions.
Where to use
It is an ideal material designed for use in fire-stop systems for through penetrations and joints. This product excels in applications where greater water resistance is required e.g. curtain wall, building facade, expansion/pipe and cable joints.
Key Features
1. 100% silicone
2. Excellent weatherproofing and waterproofing
3. Low gas transmission rate
4. With highly efficient redundant
Basic Application
1.Building fire seam sealed
2.Building façade
3.cable joints
Technical data sheet
Test standard | Test project | Unit | value |
Before curing——25℃,50%R.H. | |||
GB13477 | Flow, sagging or vertical flow | mm | 0 |
GB13477 | Operating time | min | 15 |
GB13477 | surface drying time(25℃,50%R.H.) | min | 40-60 |
Sealant curing speed and operating time will have different with different temperatures and temperature, high temperature and high humidity can make sealant curing speed faster, rather low temperature and low humidity are slower.21 days after curing——25℃,50%R.H. | |||
GB/T 531.1-2008 | Durometer Hardness | Shore A | 20-60 |
GB13477 | 60% elongation of cementation | no damaging | |
GB13477 | Elongation limit | % | 120 |
GB/T 24267 | Sealant level | 20HM | |
GB/T 24267 | Fire prevention level | FV-0 |
Certification
GB/T 24267-2009
Color
Black
Package
300ml in cartridge * 24 per box
Shelf life
12 months
Note
If you want the TDS or MSDS or other details, please contact with our sales person.
This is an updated video to replace https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIY88bP8ZVA based on comments and questions I have received since posting.
In addition, there is a video on the pressure washer set up at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz-8jvPGA7o&t=2s and the detail cart at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyfWbw7GHro and the air dryer at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNH9w4lD57U
Soundcloud Music credit artist A Himitsu track Lost Within
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Does the pressure in your Combi boiler or heating system boiler keep dropping? Here’s how to fix it! We’ll show you why it happens, and how to fix it. We’ll show you how the filling loop works with mains pressure, we’ll show you how the expansion vessel works and can fail, how the high pressure relief valve can release pressure and how a lack of inhibitor can cause air and a drop in pressure.
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So you’ve been noticing lately that the pressure gauge on the front of your boiler that looks very similar to some of the pressure gauges that I’ve got going on behind me at the moment has been dropping down. Now if it goes anywhere below kind of half a bar, then you know that you’ve got a problem and obviously if it’s constantly going down all the time or that recently you’re topping it up using a filling loop like then you’ll know that you’ve definitely got a problem. Now there’s a few things that can cause this and inside a heating system, the cold water atoms and On a pressurized system, instead of having the expansion pipe, you have what’s called an expansion vessel. How they work is very simple. It’s very difficult to compress water and so therefore you have an expansion vessel with a rubber diaphragm and on one side of the diaphragm you have compressed air that’s usually compressed to one or one and a half bar and on the other side you have your heating system water. So as that water heats up and expands, it gets more and more happy, it can expand into the easily compressed air without letting air into the heating system because there’s a rubber diaphragm in the way. So make sure that your heating system is nice and full of water at all times, you have a filling loop that fills up the cold water from the cold water main system and make sure that everything’s okay. So now you’ve got a basic idea about how a pressurized heating system works. Let’s look at problem number one that could cause a pressure drop. Firstly and most obviously of all, you could have a leak on your heating system somewhere. When it comes to finding leaks, the best thing to do is pop around all the radiator valves for a start and just make sure there’s no leaks on them. Make sure you lift up the heads as well to make sure that there’s no weep on top of the valves. Make sure that the compression fittings on each side of the radiator valves are nice and tight and there’s no water anywhere. Just go around, run around with your hands and make sure that you’ve got no leaks there at all. That’s number one on the list. Try and stop the leaks. If you find that you can’t find any leaks anywhere, always look out for sort of dark brown patches on the ceiling. They can indicate leaks. After that, you’re into the gnarly world of pulling up floorboards and having a look under the floor. Things like that can get pretty horrible. So that’s number one. You might actually have a leak on your heating system. Number two, most modern combi boilers have what’s called automatic air vents on them. Now they’re great for when it comes to venting a system out. Everything gets vented automatically and it works brilliantly. But they can cause problems if the heating system hasn’t got an adequate amount of inhibitor in it or if the pump setting is set too high for the speed. Let’s go through both of those quickly now. What an inhibitor does is stops the water from reacting with the inside of the radiators and the inside of the components of the heating system itself. If that’s not in there, you’ve got normal water going up against the insides of a radiator and causing horrible things to happen. Many, many months ago I started an experiment with two jars just like this, one with inhibitor in it and one with just water in it and then popped about 10 nails in each and I think you can see the difference. If I just pop these down so you can have a closer look at them, you can see the different state in the nails and if inhibitor is not inside your radiators, that’s exactly what’s gonna happen to the inside. Now, another byproduct of this is not just sludge and rust that goes around and stops a heating system from working properly, it’s also hydrogen and other gases. What happens is the hydrogen can work its way around to an automatic air vent and the automatic air vent’s just doing it’s job, it’s just sitting there having a nice chilled out day, a little bit of gas comes along and it lets it out quite happily, but what happens then is the pressure drops down on your boiler.